Welcome back to Table Talk, where The Daily Memphian’s food and dining editor Jennifer Biggs sends the latest food news (along with a dash of this and that) to your inbox every Wednesday.

On Sunday, I was at the pool with the kids and got a little dizzy when I started watering the plants. I realized I hadn’t eaten, which I’m bad about doing when I’m stressed or even if I just get busy.

My son-in-law checked his phone and said the heat index was 111 degrees, so there was that. My seven-year-old grandson took the hose from me and after playing with it a little (he was delighted to learn he could drink from a hose), watered everything.

When I thanked him, he said: “Anything for you, Gammy. Any time.”

My boy. He’s the sweetest kid I’ve ever known — unusually kind in every regard — and that just melted my heart. I went in the kitchen for a bite to eat and to dab at my eyes, and nibbled on some of the apple cake I told you about last week while I made BLTs with perfect tomatoes.

Chloë, my granddaughter, and I cooked the cake this week and it turned out great, at least until I cut it, when I learned a lesson: If you’re following an old-school recipe, cook it the old-fashioned way. I always use the convection setting on my stove, so I reduce the temperature by 25 degrees and cut the cooking time back about 25%, which is the standard (though a little imprecise so I check at the end, adding time if needed).

Jennifer’s tip on the apple cake: Don’t bake it on the convection setting. Do what the recipe says and bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour. (Jennifer Biggs/The Daily Memphian) 

I’m adding this to the recipe, too, but here’s my tip: Don’t bake the cake on the convection setting. Do what the recipe says and bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour. I had to put mine back in and my beautiful cake still tasted great, but was no longer very pretty by the time it was moved around so much.

Here’s something else that tasted mighty good: the brandade at Dory. Have mercy. Owners Dave and Amanda Krog held a media hour last week to introduce their new bar menu, and that brandade resonated on every note for me. It was savory but mild. It was soft and soothing, the kind of food that feels good in your mouth. It was warm, the bread was toasty and fresh, the olive oil fragrant on top of the brandade. And it was $12. I know it’s hot outside, but you want this. 

Brandade, a dish made of salt cod and potatoes, is served in a hollowed-out river rock at Dory. (Jennifer Biggs/The Daily Memphian)

In our Cheers for Beers series, we took a trip to Uptown and Grind City Brewing. What a view! And a cool place, to boot. It’s a new brewery, just over a year old, and you need to go. Now that the CDC has recommended everyone, vaccinated or not, wear masks when indoors, I think we’ll see more people out in the heat again, a repeat of last summer. Breweries are great places to be outside. 

Grind City Brewing beers (left to right) The Godhopper Hazy IPA, Poppy’s Pils larger, Tiger Tail malt liquor and Viva Honey Seltzer on Wednesday, July 21, 2021. (Mark Weber/The Daily Memphian)

Eric Barnes, Chris Herrington and I talk about the culture of outdoor dining and how we all adapted on a sort-of combined “Sound Bites” and “The Sidebar” this week, both available online and broadcasting at 11 and 11:30 a.m. July 29 on WYXR 91.7. You can listen to the 30-minute shows on the radio, or find the extended, unedited versions on the Daily Memphian website. (Which is probably going to be off-topic gabbing, but who knows? Not me, because I haven’t heard it yet as this is the first week we’re doing this.)

Keeping the outdoor theme going, Michael Waddell tells us that Chris Ferri is looking for a place to open an outdoor venue along the lines of Railgarten in Lakeland. Ferri, most recently at Belle Tavern, is an excellent bartender and before COVID had fun theme nights at the tavern; I wish him luck finding a spot. 

Judy McLaughlin and Michael Lakey sit both under the stars and in front of the stars at Railgarten in 2018. According to Lakeland’s economic development specialist, a Downtown Memphis business owner who resides in Lakeland wants to bring a venue like Railgarten or Carolina Watershed to the suburb. (Patrick Lantrip/Daily Memphian file)

I visited the new location of Slim Chickens at Wolfchase and wow, I know where all the workers went. Five people came to my table to check on me, and when I walked up, someone greeted me on the patio, another person handed me a to-go menu when I got to the line, and another took my order. In about 45 minutes, I had contact with eight people. And I liked the chicken. 

Chicken wings and a chicken salad are also on a menu that includes sandwiches and wraps along with Southern sides, desserts and handmade milkshakes. (Jennifer Biggs/ The Daily Memphian)

This week, Recipe Exchange is back to answering requests instead of just giving you good recipes (but try that apple cake). Tim Allen wants the recipe for Elwood’s Shack shrimp & grits and owner Tim Bednarski tells me the dish was actually served at Elwood’s Shells, now closed. But he shared the recipe and you can make it any time you like. It’s restaurant portions, but I explain how to adapt for home. 

Peggy’s Healthy Home Cooking has moved, and Bain BBQ is holding a dinner series that started this week and will continue, a fundraiser to get the food truck a larger smoker.

Finally, don’t forget to make your brunch reservations for July 31 at Beauty Shop if you want to attend the book signing for Martha Foose, here to promote her book “A Good Meal is Hard to Find: Storied Recipes from the Deep South.”

Have a wonderful week; enjoy the bounty of summer as this is prime time for us.

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