Welcome back to Table Talk, where Daily Memphian food and dining editor Jennifer Biggs sends the latest food news (along with a dash of this and that) to your inbox every Wednesday. 

Well, the party happened. I won’t say it went off without a hitch, because all of last week was one big hitch, but my mother turned 80, and we celebrated with family, old and young, and with friends, old and dear.

I used to be able to throw an impromptu party for a dozen people without blinking an eye. I had an internal catalog of food and drinks I could instantly access, and it was all easy-peasy, because I did it all the time.

But life changed. I got divorced, started going out more, entertaining at home less, and then the whammy: COVID-19 came and pretty much no one outside a small pod of people was allowed in my house. That loosened, but this was the first actual party in my house in at least two years and maybe longer than that.

I won’t lie: It was hard. The menu didn’t come to me effortlessly, like it used to. In fact, I agonized over it. All the platters and big serving pieces were up and had to be retrieved (once I found them). The house was not company ready, which was a chore. And if you can shop at one grocery store in this town, well, tell me where; I was all over the place picking up this and that.

In the end, my mother had a great time, and no one else saw all the imperfections I knew were evident in the food and the overall execution. Here’s why: The cake.

And talk about imperfect! I made a torta de merengue, which is truly an impressive dessert and not at all hard to make. Minimum effort for maximum oohs and aahs, so a winner —except when it’s so humid outside. But it’s delicious as well as impressive, so no one else noticed or cared when the whipped cream started to weep. Everyone at the party asked for the recipe, which I’ll share Saturday. Make it next time you entertain and even if you feel rusty like I did, it’ll make you feel good to see everyone enjoy it.

Jef Hicks kisses his wife, Amanda, while outside of their Midtown restaurant, Memphis Whistle. (Patrick Lantrip/Daily Memphian)

Here’s something I enjoyed while I was out: Peggy Burch’s story about Memphis Whistle, the newish cocktail bar in Cooper-Young. The whole story was interesting, from the background of Jef and Amanda Hicks to how they started Memphis Whistle, but I particularly love the anecdote about how a previously unnamed cocktail came to be called “I’ll Have What She’s Having.” 

John Currence, owner of Big Bad Breakfast, plans to open a location in Cooper-Young. (Mark Weber/The Daily Memphian)

Speaking of Cooper-Young: The corners are under new ownership. For years, Charlie Ryan has owned buildings on three of the four corners and last month sold the buildings that house Mulan and Margaritas to Fresh Hospitality, a group of regional small-chain restaurants that include John Currence’s Big Bad Breakfast, which will — sooner or later — open in the space now occupied by Mulan. 

A quick last note about Cooper-Young: I ate Easter brunch with family and friends at Sweet Grass on its last day of service and, of course, it was bittersweet. It was nice to see everyone there, sad to know they’re closing, but it also convinced me of this: We’re going to be one of those families that eats out on holidays, at least the brunch ones. It was so pleasant and so easy. No shopping, no cooking, no clean up.

Over on Madison, the former Deli on the Square opened as Deli Midtown, and this time, it’s a food truck. But for everyone who’s missed Jolynn Greer’s sandwiches, pasta salad and shrimp salad on Fridays, that’s enough. Christin Yates gives the details here. 

Muggin' Coffeehouse owners Mary and Ken Olds plan to open a new location of their coffee shop in the fall. (Patrick Lantrip/Daily Memphian file)

Uptown is getting some love, too: Muggin’ Coffeehouse in Whitehaven will open a second location there in the fall, and owners Ken and Mary Olds plan for the new shop to be a community gathering spot. 

The double cheeseburger at Tenero comes dressed with a special sauce. (Jennifer Biggs/Daily Memphian)

Out in East Memphis, things are hopping just south of the railroad tracks on Mendenhall. Tenero Café & Butcher has taken over the space where Southall was, changed the menu and is at this very moment building out a butcher case that will open in a few days, exact date unknown. What is known is that they’ll sell USDA Prime beef, Iowa premium pork, and 16 varieties of bratwurst made by their butcher. There’s more, like the double cheeseburger and the Sunday night dinners, so have a look at this New Eats. 

Across the street, the plan is to tear down Williamsburg Village, but just the shops. No worries about the Half Shell, which is staying, as is Epic Hair Salon, and Gus’s is in the clear too. (But poor Half Shell! It looks like it got some unexpected face work when a car drove into the corner of the building on Tuesday.)

And this was something fun that happened when I was out. Jasmine McCraven riffed from a Sound Bites podcast Chris Herrington and I did a few weeks back and asked folks what’s missing from the Memphis restaurant scene. You answered, and I agree with all of it except barbecue. Ha! But more than one person said that, and Herrington agrees. Hmm. Take the poll when you read the story; right now, late-night dining and bakeries are tied for the most-needed food establishment. 

This is a sad and somber note to end this week’s Table Talk. My heart goes out to the family and friends of Jody Moyt, who was killed this week after an altercation in traffic. Moyt was the chef at Lafayette’s Music Room from the day it opened and was liked by everyone who knew him. It was a senseless and sorrowful end to his life. 

Be safe, eat well, and don’t forget to look for the torta de merengue recipe on Saturday.

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