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Table Talk: Saigon Le menu to return; more Summer; lunch at Salt|Soy
 
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Bryant’s Breakfast biscuit sandwiches returned in April 2021 with the restaurant’s reopening. (Mark Weber/The Daily Memphian)
 

Bryant’s Breakfast biscuit sandwiches returned in April 2021 with the restaurant’s reopening. (Mark Weber/The Daily Memphian)

Welcome back to Table Talk, where Daily Memphian food and dining editor Jennifer Biggs sends the latest food news (along with a dash of this and that) to your inbox every Wednesday.

 Some years ago — it was for work but I don’t recall the story — I spoke several times with Vince Higgins, who was the spokesman for the Memphis Police Department at the time. I mentioned to him that I was going to be on vacation, but that he could call my cell number if anything happened I needed to know.

This was 15 years ago, at least. He said: “Ms. Biggs, when you go on vacation, you have to leave town and you don’t answer your phone. That’s vacation.”

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I’m a slow learner. Yes, I told you last week I was going on vacation and I sort of am. That means that I spent all day Saturday in the pool and it was just lovely. I felt no pressure, no looming deadlines, just a plan to hit the road Sunday morning for a few days in the relative cool of the Ozarks.

Then some things came up, we changed plans at the last minute, and here I am, writing a column for you. But honestly, what a great week to be here anyway. June stopped acting like August; I got some yard work done, scheduled some house repairs, am excited about seeing “Jesus Christ Superstar” at The Orpheum tonight and have dinners planned with old friends this week — including my dearest from 40 years ago.

Tuyen Le has been operating New Orleans Seafood at 288 N. Cleveland St., but has closed it and will open her new restaurant soon. (Courtesy Tuyen Le)

And I won’t have to cancel at the last moment, because even though I’m working some, I’m working a very light schedule, so no breaking news for me with the exception of this: Saigon Le is back.

I mean, really, how could I let that go? To be clear, it’s not actually Saigon Le, but most of the Saigon Le menu will be available at Tuyen’s Asian Bistro. Tuyen Le is one of the daughters who worked at the beloved Midtown restaurant for 20 years. She’ll be in the kitchen, along with a former Saigon Le cook, and it could all open within the next two weeks (but we know how things go, so patience; I’ll give you notice of opening day). 

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Edamame salad (clockwise, from left), catfish sandwich, prawn dog and tonkatsu are on the lunch menu at Salt|Soy. (Jennifer Biggs/The Daily Memphian)

We have about 10 seats left for our first Friday lunch since early 2020, and one could belong to you just by following this link and reserving your space. We’re going to Salt|Soy and here’s the menu: A sample of sushi for every table; a choice of ginger salad or miso soup; a mini house-made prawn dog, half a tonkatsu sandwich (it’s huge!) and a side dish of your choice for your entrée; a selection of house-made cookies for dessert; and a soft drink. You can purchase alcohol from the bar, including a special drink that will be made for our lunch.

It’s $20 plus tax and tip for subscribers and $25+ for nonsubscribers. Click here to reserve, and subscribers, be sure to click the “here” link in the last paragraph to get your promo code. Follow the prompts and when you enter the code, don’t forget to hit the “apply” button to get the discount. Ahem; take it from me … 

Owner Harold Do began working at Nagasaki Inn on Summer Avenue when he was in his 20s. (Houston Cofield/Special To The Daily Memphian)

Also this week, Chris Herrington and I brought you Part 2 of our four-part Summer Avenue series, taking you from Highland to Waring, with stops along the way at both our favorite Mexican restaurants, Bryant’s, La Michoacana and a visit with Harold Do at Nagasaki Inn. And of course we talk it all over on Sound Bites, so have a listen to us discuss the treasured street. 

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Next week, it’s Part 3, and while we love the whole street, there’s a solid case to be made that this is the beating heart of Summer Avenue; look for it July 5.

Czenzie Smith and her family own the now-closed Marmalade Restaurant. But the space is undergoing renovations in hopes of a new tenant. (Lucy Garrett/Special to the Daily Memphian)

What a great story Christin Yates delivered about the Marmalade. It’s an excellent history of the business and it explains why I’ve never been able to eat there though I’ve tried many times over the past few years. But maybe, just maybe, a restaurant will open there again. Enjoy the read; I certainly did. 

Neil Strebig also tells us that Felicia Suzanne’s moves ever closer to opening on South Main, though we don’t have a date yet. I talked to Felicia Willett recently and she’s hoping for the fall.

And, wow, how about Memphis Sandwich Clique co-founder Ryan Hopgood’s recovery after a heatstroke that left him on a ventilator and his family prepared to donate his organs? He had other plans, and we told you about it first. 

Samosa chaat and kathi rolls are among the street food options at Nawab’s Restaurant in Collierville. (Chris Herrington/The Daily Memphian)

Chris Herrington takes us on a $10 Deal that’s on my list for lunch this week; I absolutely loooove Indian street food and have raved for weeks about Maneet Chauhan’s pani puri at Le Bon Appetit. Herrington went to Nawab, and I bet you’ll want to go, too, when you read about it. 

Not only did I bring you good news about Magnolia & May hiring Gannon Hamilton and opening for lunch on Thursday and Friday, but I also fulfilled a reader request for the restaurant’s pimento cheese. And good ol’ Chip Dunham: As soon as the pimento cheese recipe went up, folks asked for the flatbread recipe that was served with it at The Grove Grill. Dunham said sure but he’d have to scale it down for me first since his recipe begins with 56 cups of flour.

So look for that soon but not this week. There’s a favorite Just For Lunch recipe coming by request on Saturday, so get your cucumbers ready …

Have a great week. Keep your fingers crossed that if, like me, you paid for your new car tag 57 days ago (but who’s counting) yet are driving on expired tags, this is the week they arrive. How ridiculous, and one of the reasons for canceling my trip. Who wants to drive across Arkansas with expired tags, get a ticket and have to go back for a court appearance? Grrr.

 
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