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Table Talk: Bar Limina hosts James Beard nominee in new residency
 
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Josh Conley owns Bar Limina. (Patrick Lantrip/The Daily Memphian file)
 

Josh Conley owns Bar Limina. (Patrick Lantrip/The Daily Memphian file)

Welcome back to Table Talk, The Daily Memphian’s weekly food and dining newsletter, especially for subscribers. 

I’ve been having so many conversations lately about the incredible art throughout Memphis. 

There are Memphis artists who use canvas, clay, stone and the stage, the voice or the ear to create their art. And there are also dozens of creative culinary artists who paint with acid, heat, salt and fat, making masterpieces that are appreciated both on the plate and the palate.

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Uncle Ts Nightcap No. 2 is served at Bar Limina. (Robert Jordan Finney/Courtesy Bar Limina)

But what about the mixologists? The humble bartenders who make simple syrups from scratch, pick fresh fruit from farmers markets to muddle, add smoke for taste and dry ice for flair to our favorite cocktails and mocktails?

From the basic beauty of a Tequila Sunrise to the complexity of a Buttery Nipple, bartenders create their own kind of art that evokes emotion and prompts discussion.

That’s one of the reasons why the entire concept of Bar Limina in the Edge District is so captivating to me. It solves a few common industry problems while also generating a sense of exclusivity and urgency — you want to get to Bar Limina whether you consume alcohol or not.

If you’re unfamiliar, don’t worry. That’s why I’m here.

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Bar Limina sits at 631 Madison Ave. near the corner of Marshall Avenue. If that address sounds familiar, it’s probably because the space was once home to Inkwell. But Bar Limina has put a restaurant twist on the business: The bar hosts featured bartenders in addition to the Memphians running the day-to-day show.

Jorg Wuz Here drink at Bar Limina includes gin, lemon, pernod, Champagne Syrup, black tea and arugula. (Sophia Surrett/The Daily Memphian file)

The idea is as you keep coming back you can experience the talents of the different guest bartenders throughout the year.

“It was hyper-intentional,” said Josh Conley, the owner of Bar Limina. “Residencies are slower paced ... than the pop-ups and bar takeovers that have gotten popular in the industry.”

In lieu of overcrowded spaces with people more concerned about getting the perfect shot for TikTok than they are with the atmosphere and drinks, Bar Limina gives patrons a chance to sit down and experience the featured bartender’s work in the course of a few days — or even a week.

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This month’s bartender is James Beard Award nominee Abigail Gullo of Loa Bar in New Orleans.

Conley said he has wanted to work with her since he sat down at her New Orleans bar in 2013. They kept in touch throughout the years, and when the opportunity arose, they took it.

Bar Limina sits at 631 Madison Ave. near the corner of Marshall Avenue. (Patrick Lantrip/The Daily Memphian file)

“When I am a guest at things like this, I always want face-to-face contact with the bartender,” Conley said. “To have someone like Abigail right out the gate is a huge get. I’m excited to let Memphians love on her a little bit.”

Gullo’s residency will be Friday, July 11, and Saturday, July 12, at Bar Limina. Reservations are available for everywhere except the bar seats.

This week on the Memphis food scene

Speaking of “N’awlins,” Erica Horton helps your Memphis dollar stretch all the way to the French Quarter this week with a Bayou Bar & Grill recommendation in this week’s $15 Deal

In Food Files, Sophia Surrett keeps us in the loop on the temporary closures of two Memphis restaurants and the opening of a new bakery.

Staff and developers of the games in Game Nite Lounge (from left to right: Ian Bishop, Josh Taylor, Madyson Chapman, Keith Edwards and Alexander Drown) test out a game in The Brightest Timeline room June 28. (Greg Campbell/Special to The Daily Memphian)

Surrett also talked to the owners of a new game bar coming to Midtown about the design of their interactive games and some of the inspiration behind them.

A newish fried chicken chain with Filipino roots opened an additional location in Memphis. Check out the fun literary device their name uses to make you think of “cock-a-doodle-doo.”

Did you hear about the restaurateur who took over one of Bartlett’s “ugliest” buildings? Michael Waddell talked to Aaron Liu about his latest sushi and tea house location to open.

In case you’re craving soul food, I help you decide what to order from The Four Way in South Memphis.

And it was a week of highs, lows and more highs for DJ Naylor and Brazen Restaurant Group. Catch up on the news about an accident that closed Celtic Crossing, though it looks to reopen soon, and the grand opening of Maeve’s Tavern in Collierville.

 
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