Welcome to Table Talk, The Daily Memphian’s weekly food and dining newsletter for subscribers only.

’Tis the season to be overwhelmed and fatigued. There’s shopping to do, presents to wrap, grocery lists to make and deciding if you truly trust the discernment of your Instacart or DoorDash shopper enough to get everything you need from the store.

In my home, Christmas isn’t typically about one meal; it’s about several. There’s our tradition of baking cookies on Dec. 23 while each family member decorates their own stocking, complete with hot cocoa and marshmallows in massive mugs. Then, if we’re mindful enough to not eat all of the aforementioned cookies by Dec. 24, we set a few of them out on a plate alongside a glass of (almond) milk for Santa.

Next, people in my family actually expect to eat breakfast on Christmas morning. I wised up years ago, thanks to the advice of a family friend, so as the house sleeps, I put together a breakfast casserole that’ll get popped in the oven as soon as someone says, “TeeTee? What are we eating for breakfast?” the next morning.

Typically, after the exhaustion and elation that come from watching the people I love open their gifts, I need to hustle back to the kitchen.

In years past, I’ve done everything from glazing and baking a ham to preparing all the sides on Christmas morning, desperately trying to get it all on the table by 4 o’clock (we never eat regular dinner that early, but for some reason, holiday meals are always served early in my childhood home). Sometimes I’ll even convince myself that I’m Patti LaBelle and make a few desserts, too.

Most years I succeed. A few, I failed. Never has anyone complained — to my face.

But this year, I’m avoiding a tiny bit of the burnout, thanks to my sister’s infinite wisdom and catering from a local business in Michigan, where I’ll be spending the holiday. With absolutely zero effort from me beyond reheating, my family and I will enjoy stuffed and dressed Cornish hens, yams, macaroni and cheese, cranberry sauce and more. I will release the need for holiday perfection, embrace the help and expertise of others, and maybe even contribute a dessert to the dinner table.

But, no matter what, that Christmas morning breakfast is still a delight to prepare. Happy holidays to all who celebrate!

This week on the Memphis food scene

Porch & Parlor's surf and turf dish comes with three 3-ounce portions of filet and, from left to right, a scallop, a prawn and a lobster tail. (Ellen Chamberlain/The Daily Memphian)

’Tis also the season for fancy dining, so I’ve got plenty of opinions to share about what to order at Porch & Parlor. After all, why not take advantage of the best a steakhouse has to offer from both land and sea?

In Food Files, Sophia Surrett lets us know what local coffee chain closed its Arlington location and what to expect next from Flip Side Pinball Bar.

For folks who plan to do lots of cooking this week, Jennifer Chandler is taking us back (“way back, back into time”) with a decadent butter cake recipe from Chef Jimmy Gentry’s former restaurant, P.O. Press Public House and Provisions.

One of Jimmy Gentry’s favorite cakes is a cream cheese-filled butter cake that was served at P.O. Press Public House and Provisions. (Courtesy Justin Fox Burks)

In this week’s $15 Deal, Erica Horton describes the warm, savory goodness that is the Brass Door’s traditional Irish shepherd’s pie.

Jody Callahan is always on hand to answer your most pressing questions and, in his latest installment of Ask the Memphian, he breaks down why the city has such strict regulations on where liquor stores can open.

To commemorate Memphis’ infamous ice storm of 1994, Boscos and Memphis Made Brewing Co. partnered up on a special Christmas ale. The very small batch ale is gone now, but it’s not too late to learn about it.

Plus, we meet the new executive chef at Paulette’s Restaurant in Harbor Town, Guy Sockrider. 

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