Welcome back to Table Talk, where Daily Memphian food and dining editor Jennifer Biggs sends the latest food news (along with a dash of this and that) to your inbox every Wednesday.

I’m like Santa this time every year: I’m making a list and checking it twice, but for the past, oh 20 years or so, I’m the naughty one because I pare that long list down to two things.

But I take pleasure in making it all the same, because it’s a list of all the cookies and candies I plan to prepare for the holiday festivities, and when it’s done, I make pralines and milk punch.

However — and I write this with an honest heart — this year is going to be different. Oh, for Pete’s sake, I already know that I’m not going to bake the Russian Honey Cake that’s on my list, but I’m working smart and seeing if Rosie Herrington has the time and the inclination to make it for some Christmas cash. (Although maybe, just maybe we can get the baking-est teenager I know to make a video for us …)

A handful of new things for sure are going on the list, though: Kourambiethes, the Greek butter cookie drowning in powdered sugar, which I realized this year is so similar to my late mother-in-law’s pecan crescents, which was part of my Christmas tradition for many years (always served with homemade boiled custard).

And because my grandkids love popcorn and everyone I know loves the Wondershop by Target butter toffee popcorn, we’re making it. We’re also correcting a serious error, because Target puts almonds in their mix and everyone knows that pecans are the king of nuts. What else would we use?

On the super-easy, just-for-fun list, my grandson Jack and I will make “homemade” Oreos, his favorite cookie. We could bake the cookies — I have plenty of the King Arthur Baking Company black cocoa left from the last time I did it — but we won’t. We’ll just pipe a stiff buttercream in Nabisco Famous Chocolate Wafers and call them homemade; he’ll enjoy it. You could do the same with a liquored-up filling and make a grownup cookie. Kahlua cream, maybe? Or Chambord if you like raspberry and chocolate. Many of you do; I don’t like raspberries. Grand Marnier, bourbon, brandy — do your thing.

While you’re filling in your cookies, don’t sleep on the thin gingersnaps. I adore vanilla buttercream with a ginger cookie, but be sure to serve these right away as the wafer-thin cookies can get soft. Dewey’s is an excellent brand; Anna’s are also good and easily found in groceries (they’re also a bit sturdier).

And while we’re talking recipes and I’m saying don’t sleep, well, ahem… Where are the requests? I’m happy to give you recipes every week, but don’t you want recipes from your favorite restaurants? I can’t promise I can get every one you seek, but I promise to ask and experience tells me that chefs are generous with most of their recipes. Send in the requests; email jbiggs@dailymemphian.com and ask for anything, current or nostalgic. I’ll do my best.

To set the tone, I’m publishing a recipe for Senegalese Curry Soup from the long-closed and greatly missed La Patisserie, which was owned by the late Guy Pacaud. This was easy to find because I have a copy of my friend and former colleague Christine Arpe Gang’s “Memphis Cuisine.” It’s 30 years old but because she took the time to write it, this soup that might’ve been forgotten is at my fingertips.

Let’s take a quick look at last week, when I actually took a few days off but guess what? Plenty still happened. Chris Herrington told us about TacoNGanas’ plan to take over the world, one taco at a time. The local taco truck opened its fourth location at Central and Cooper, and gave Chris a scoop on a related new brick and mortar shop opening in Thornwood, though the new “high-end” Mexican restaurant won’t be a TacoNGanas. 

TacoNGanas’ carnitas tacos dipped in consomé sauce on Tuesday, October 9, 2020. (Mark Weber/The Daily Memphian file)

And that takes us right to Abigail Warren’s story about Kohesian closing in Thornwood  (where the new Mexican place will go). The Korean fusion restaurant made it two years despite COVID, but Friday is its last day; better hurry if you want some of that delicious crispy chicken. 

Friday is the final day for Kohesian, the Thornwood restaurant on the northern edge of Germantown’s central business district. (Abigail Warren/Daily Memphian)

I managed to bring you a $10 Deal from Pho Saigon that’s one of the best bargains in town, and delivered the news that the nearly 30-year-old restaurant has been sold, though it remains in the family and no changes are planned. 

Chicken with ginger and beef with lemongrass are two of the $7.99 lunch specials at Pho Saigon. (Jennifer Biggs/ The Daily Memphian)

Mac Edwards joins me on Sound Bites to talk about The Farmer opening at Railgarten next week, and on being Mac, which is a thing. He’s led an interesting life and we talk about it a bit, including how he started in the restaurant business. 

And Michael Waddell tells us about what’s going on at Biscuits & Jams in Bartlett, where “Chef Mo” Monique Williams is delivering breakfast, brunch and live music. 

Simone Lampkin feeds her daughter, Samira Chapman, some of her chicken and waffles at Biscuits & Jams in Bartlett Nov. 21, 2021. (Patrick Lantrip/Daily Memphian)

Have a great week, everyone. If you’re not counting down, I’ll do it for you: You have 17 days until Christmas and I hope you’ve cooked more — and bought more gifts — than me. If not, well, we’ll pull it off anyway, right? (But for real, we better get movin’. We = me.)

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