I love a good food transformation story. 

Maybe you’ve experienced it: You arrive at one of your favorite restaurants, only to discover that while you were away, it changed into something new.

But then, to your surprise, that something new is really delicious. Yes, you’ll go through the five stages of grief to mourn the old place, but it’s all okay in the end when you fall in love with the new fare.

That’s what happened to me with StickEm. 

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This food truck has trundled around Memphis since 2012, opening shortly after the area’s first food truck ordinance was passed. StickEm’s owner and chef, Ermyias Shiberou, told me that each year he expected interest to fade or for food trucks to go out of style. But 10 years in, he’s embraced it. Food trucks are here to stay, and he’s even opened a second truck to prove it. 

I, however, wasn’t introduced to StickEm through the food truck. It was through the closing of my beloved Blue Nile Ethiopian restaurant at 1788 Madison Ave. 

Shiberou first opened Blue Nile in 2015. But at the start of the pandemic, he realized that he wanted to streamline the business and convert Blue Nile into a brick-and-mortar StickEm. Understandable but still heartbreaking when I showed up one day hoping for injera — Ethiopian fermented flatbread — and lentil stew, to find a completely new restaurant instead. 

Thankfully I worked through my grief enough to give StickEm a try. 

To this day, it’s one of my favorite quick lunch or dinner places with food that is not only delicious but affordable. The tofu kebab platter is $10, and it comes with three seasoned kebab sticks and two sides. It makes for a full plate and belly. Those not into vegetarian fare can get the $11 chicken kebab plate or a mixed plate of chicken and tofu for $10. 

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How to describe the style of food at StickEm? It’s a fusion of African, Middle Eastern and even a little American.

At the restaurant you can still find a few authentic Ethiopian dishes such as the $11 red lentil stew, and sides such as collard greens and cabbage. But other offerings are distinctly American, like the wings and fries. All of them are good, I’ve tried. Plus they’ve thrown in jerk chicken for some Caribbean flair. 

When I’m not in a money-saving mood, I opt for the tofu tibs, another holdover from the Blue Nile days, or the vegetable platter with savory seasoned veggies and lentil stew. My partner opts for the snapper plate or the steak and lamb kebabs. 

The food truck, which is frequently found Downtown on Thursdays, offers the same good deals but with a more streamlined menu. Customers can mix and match kebabs and sides with the same $10 dollar options available. 

Shiberou said that they’ve had to cut down the restaurant’s hours in order to keep the staff sane in this season of limited hiring options. And he’s doing everything he can to keep costs low, even during this period of increased inflation.

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As we enjoyed our dinner for two that rang up to just over $20, I’m glad he’s making it work.

StickEm, 1788 Madison Ave., is open for lunch and dinner, Tuesdays through Fridays, 11 a.m.-2:45 p.m. and 5-9 p.m.; it’s open Saturdays, 1-9 p.m. Call (901) 474-7214 for more information.