$10 Deal: Burritos, tortas and flautas at Emilio’s Grocery
Flauta plate, al pastor torta and pollo asado burrito from Emilio’s Grocery on Getwell Rd. (Josh Carlucci/The Daily Memphian)
Amid an exploration of the city’s taquerias, I discovered an uncut gem of street food: a busy Mexican grocery on a busy corner of Getwell Road with a small but buzzy restaurant inside.
Emilio’s Grocery is home to many staples of the Mexican pantry you might find dear: masa flour, dried chiles, achiote. It’s also home to a lovely taqueria that’s most likely got a line stretching near the door of hungry folks either starting their day or getting off work.
I walked in late — less than an hour before closing — with the intention of just getting one thing but when I reached the register, a bout of indecision washed over me. Nearly every menu item was under $10. The myriad of potential $10 Deals flashed before me like a neon sign, and I was suddenly much hungrier.
Look, everyone’s tastes are different. Mine change like the wind and the tide. So, I’m going to try to do right by y’all and give you a three-for-one $10 Deal, but the choice is ultimately yours. I don’t think you can strike out at Emilio’s.
I tried to cover all my bases without — call me crazy — getting tacos.
I wanted to get an assortment of food, a variety of flavors and textures that didn’t just rely on the tried-and-true. I went with a pollo asado burrito, an al pastor torta and chicken flautas.
The burrito: basic at its core — nothing crazy. But for me, the hallmark of a good burrito is simplicity. If every component is well done, you don’t need to do too much to please.
I’d say that’s the case with the burrito at Emilio’s. The chicken, cooked asado style with lots of cumin and achiote, was perfect, with a crispy exterior locking in a juicy center. The refried beans and red rice seemed to meld together seamlessly, creating a soft and savory contrast to the fresh shredded lettuce, sliced just fine enough. Wrapped up and grilled to a crisp warmth on the tortilla, it’s a solid burrito for $7.99.
The flautas: a hefty plate—its weight in my hands was surprising enough, but it makes sense when you pop the top. In all, you get four large flautas, which, if you don’t know, are basically taquitos, or small tacos of meat, rolled up and fried.
Flautas vary in size from place to place, but those at Emilio’s are big — a solid eight inches or so. They’re crispy and light, filled with the same chicken as the burrito, and topped with a plethora of sour cream, lettuce and queso fresco. It comes with a side of rice and beans, and I also piled on pickled radish and jalapeño encurdito for some extra jazz. Eat half and save the rest for lunch tomorrow, and bam—you got two meals for $8.99.
Finally, the torta: my personal favorite of the three. I love tortas. I feel like they’re under-ordered and under-appreciated, though I might just be hanging with the wrong crowd. They’re so versatile, so varied, and so different from all other sandwiches, but they always work.
I went with the al pastor at Emilio’s, because it’s one of my favorite meat choices, and theirs didn’t disappoint.
Deeply flavorful, savory, spicy and sweet from the pineapple, the pork was delightfully soft and rich under a layer of fresh lettuce, tomato and onion. If you’ve never seen refried beans on a sandwich, don’t freak out. That’s what tortas are all about. Really — it works. It’s just like you’d imagine in a burrito, with the cheese and sour cream. But here, instead of the tortilla, it’s all topped up on a soft, fluffy Mexican bun.
I’m not sure if Emilio’s bake its own buns there, but they taste like it. Emilio’s has tortas of all varieties — even a Cuban — for $8.99. Go crazy.
Let me set you up for success at Emilio’s: Go during lunch or a non-traditional mealtime to beat the crowd.
Ask for extra salsa and some empty ramekins for extra trinkets from the condiment bar. Bring an empty stomach and an open mind, and get something you normally wouldn’t. You might just find yourself a new “usual.”
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$10 Deal Emilio's GroceryJoshua Carlucci
Joshua Carlucci is a writer and food journalist from Los Banos, California. He holds a BA in English from the University of California, Berkeley, a culinary diploma from the Institute of Culinary Education, and an MFA in Creative Writing from the University of Memphis, where he was managing editor of Pinch. His work has appeared or is forthcoming in The Brussels Review, Redivider, Gravy, EatingWell, Southern Living, and elsewhere. He is a staff writer at Brooklyn-based food and beverage industry magazine, StarChefs.Find more of his work on his website, joshuacarlucci.com.
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