Editor’s note: Our website doesn’t recognize all the accents and characters used when writing Vietnamese words; we’ve replaced them, as needed, with their counterparts in Roman script. 

Jennifer Biggs said it best: “The bánh mì is possibly the world’s best sandwich.”

I’d agree, and go even further to say that, actually, it is the world’s best sandwich — at very least in my eyes. A good bánh mì is something of a work of art: A careful balance of flavors and textures that harmonize in the mouth. It’s like edible serotonin.

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I’d like to push the envelope a little further here: Though there is a seemingly infinite number of bánh mì variants, there is but one to rule them all — the bánh mì dac biet. 

Arguably the most popular bánh mì in Vietnam, this sandwich, in its purest form, usually consists of cold cuts — Vietnamese mortadella (cha lua), headcheese and pork shank — cilantro, pickled carrots and daikon, sliced chilis, cucumber, liver pâté and mayonnaise all bundled up in a crispy and soft French baguette.

The bánh mì dac biet is the sandwich-based epitome of Vietnamese cuisine because it is the ultimate example of fusion cuisine. Sliced forcemeats and terrines on a baguette? French as heck. But add in all the spices and produce native to Vietnam? You’ve got yourself a little slice of culinary history.

There are many places to get a bánh mì in town, and I’ve not tried every option. But lately, I’ve been obsessed with Pho 4Ever on Germantown Parkway (all thanks to Chris Herrington for putting me on it). I’ve been three times in the past three weeks, and I’m not ashamed of it.

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I’ve been trying to make my rounds through their menu, from Vietnamese crepes (bánh xèo) to pork and shrimp noodle soup (hu tieu). This week, I had the pleasure to try their take on the bánh mì dac biet.

The sandwich came out in a wicker basket, wrapped in paper like an Easter present. It was adorable. Busting from the seam were the usual suspects: cha lua, headcheese and all the fixings, except pork shank, but really, it wasn’t a big deal because every other ingredient shone luminously.

The cold cuts, thinly sliced and just slightly spongy, were layered atop a nice schmear of peppery pâté. Above that, the medley of julienned veggies brings a bright and herbaceous crunch to the soft and savory meats.

But the best part? The bread. To me, the success of a bánh mì is all in the baguette. If the bread is stale, the end result is a hardened, unenjoyable contraption that dulls the flavors of the fillings. A good baguette, fresh from the oven that same day, provides a pillowy, chewy texture that, with a crisp crust, serves as the perfect vehicle for its parts.

I’ll just say this: Whatever they’re making it from or wherever they’re getting it from, Pho 4Ever is using some dang good bread.

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The second best part? The bánh mì at Pho 4ever are only six bucks. That means you’ve got a lot of extra breathing (or, rather, eating) room for, say a Vietnamese iced coffee (cà phê sua dá), my favorite accompaniment to a midday bánh mì.

Whatever you choose, I’m sure you’ll be more than fine. Pho 4ever is a not-so-hidden gem slinging some serious bangers.

Pho 4Ever, located at 1645 Bonnie Lane in Cordova, is open Tuesdays through Sundays, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and closed Mondays. Call 901-474-7831 for more information.