There are few places that conjure as much nostalgia as Italian-American diners. Countless memories from my small-town childhood were set at an old-timey drug store soda fountain where old men in veteran hats would order BLTs, cups of minestrone soup and Italian sausage and peppers as well as chocolate malts.

Such a setting is not unlike Dino’s Grill near Overton Park.

Dino’s opened in the 1970s, slinging Italian-American comfort food, and it continues to do so today in much the same fashion. The menu is priced well below what’s offered at most sit-down restaurants in town, let alone Italian places.

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The place is overwhelmingly inviting: an old-school block letter sign hangs out above Italian and American flags that flutter side by side. Inside, the walls are draped in war regalia, immigration information and ancient family photos. It reminds me of my great-grandmother’s house, and I’m pretty sure that’s the point. Italian Americans love our family memorabilia.

You can go a few different directions at Dino’s, depending on your mood — anywhere between country-fried steak and homemade lasagna — and it’s all going to be comforting.

But if you’re looking for the $10-and-under category, look to the sandwiches.

There’s a plethora from which to choose, but I decided to try a couple that remind me the most of home: Italian sausage ($9.50) and veal parmesan ($10).

Both of these bad boys come out on an open-faced hoagie roll toasted with butter, topped with each meat respectively and then drowned in red sauce (“gravy,” if you call it that). 

First impression: These sandwiches are not for the light or neat eater, nor are they for the faint of heart. These behemoths require some tools, such as a knife to cut them in half and a decent-sized pile of napkins.

Messy factor and size aside, the eatability of these sandwiches is incredibly high. The sausage is rich in fennel seed and grilled in halves for maximum caramelization. The veal cutlet is thicker than you’d expect and still crunchy even under all that sauce and cheese. The fact that the sauce consumes both dishes is excusable because it’s really delicious — heavy on the onions and oregano, just like any decent Sunday gravy should be.

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If you’re feeling yourself, a side of onion rings or fries is just over two bucks. Completely unnecessary? Sure, but they’re tasty and fun to dip and share if you’ve got a pal. I recommend bringing one if you can — it’s easier to divide and conquer your way through multiple sandwiches and sides.

Dino’s Grill, located at 645 N. McLean Blvd., is open Tuesdays through Sundays, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. For more info, call (901) 278-9127.