Editor’s note: Our website doesn’t recognize all the accents and characters used when writing Vietnamese words; we’ve replaced them, as needed, with their counterparts in Roman script. 

As we all know by now, Memphis is no stranger to good Vietnamese food.

But when it comes to bánh xèo, the city is more of a quiet contender than a clear champion. That’s why Pho 4Ever, a humble pho shop tucked away in Cordova, deserves another turn in the spotlight — this time for a crispy, golden delight that’s every bit as satisfying as its name suggests.

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I first wrote about Pho 4Ever in 2023 for its bánh mì dac biet, a textbook-perfect example of the Vietnamese sandwich that delivers on crunch, savoriness and pure bliss. But, it turns out, this unassuming little pho joint is also home to what I’d argue might be the best bánh xèo in Memphis — or at the very least, the best I’ve eaten in town.

Bánh xèo, which translates to “sizzling cake,” gets its name from the way the batter crisps up in a hot pan, creating a delicate yet substantial crepe-like shell. Pho 4Ever’s version stays true to the southern Vietnamese style, meaning it’s large, lacy and deeply golden, with just the right balance of crispiness and chew.

The batter, made from rice flour, coconut milk and turmeric, takes on a lightly earthy flavor while remaining delightfully thin and crunchy at the edges, thanks to the restaurant’s decision to cook it in a wok — the OG way — rather than a flat griddle.

The filling is where Pho 4Ever really hits its stride, though. This bánh xèo is generously stuffed with butterflied shrimp, ground pork and mung beans, all of which provide the perfect contrast of textures. The dish is juicy, tender and just a little starchy for balance. The shrimp remain plump and sweet, while the pork is deeply savory and well-seasoned. The mung beans, which are folded into the batter itself, offer an unexpected hit of natural umami and crunch, making every bite substantial without being overbearing.

But the beauty of bánh xèo is that it’s not meant to be eaten like a standard crepe. Instead, the move here is to break off pieces with your chopsticks, grab a leaf of green lettuce, and wrap up a little parcel of pancake, herbs and protein.

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The accompanying pile of shiso, mint, cilantro, Thai basil and lettuce provides the freshness needed to cut through the richness of the crispy shell. You then dunk the whole thing into nuoc cham, the classic Vietnamese dipping sauce made with fish sauce, lime juice, sugar and chili, creating a bite that’s bright, herbaceous, savory and just the right amount of messy.

One of the things I love about Pho 4ever’s bánh xèo is how deceptively large it is. When it arrives at the table, crisp and golden on a plate flanked by a bouquet of fresh herbs, it looks like something you might need an extra person (or two) to tackle. But once you start assembling bites, it reveals itself to be filling without being overwhelming. It’s substantial enough to be a solid meal on its own, yet light enough that you won’t feel weighed down. 

And while the menu price rings in at $13, this is easily a $10-worthy deal considering the quality, portion size and the sheer joy of assembling and eating it. Pair it with a salted lemonade and steer close to gustatory nirvana.

For those who want to take a break from the usual pho and bánh mì song and dance, this dish is a must-order. The balance of textures, the brightness of the herbs and the deeply satisfying crunch of the crepe make it one of the best things you can eat for under $15 in Memphis — and one of the city’s most underrated Vietnamese specialties. 

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In case you were wondering, this is what a bánh xèo should be.

Pho 4Ever, located at 1645 Bonnie Lane in Cordova, is open Tuesdays through Sundays, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and closed Mondays. Call (901) 474-7831 for more information.