$10 Deal: Gumbo, jambalaya and boudin balls heat up the season
Gumbo, bottom right, jambalaya, top right, and boudin balls, left, from Crawfish Haven Seafood and Catering. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)
Joshua Carlucci
Joshua Carlucci is a writer and food journalist from Los Banos, California. He holds a BA in English from the University of California, Berkeley, a culinary diploma from the Institute of Culinary Education, and an MFA in Creative Writing from the University of Memphis, where he was managing editor of Pinch. His work has appeared or is forthcoming in The Brussels Review, Redivider, Gravy, EatingWell, Southern Living, and elsewhere. He is a staff writer at Brooklyn-based food and beverage industry magazine, StarChefs.Find more of his work on his website, joshuacarlucci.com.
It’s finally feeling a bit like fall out here, but I like to think of it as gumbo weather. I believe that there is a direct correlation between the tint of overcast in the sky and the propensity to consume soup — particularly gumbo — but I’m not a meteorologist. I just love Cajun food and rudimentary comforts.
If you are in North Mississippi with any frequency, you’ve probably noticed DeSoto County’s various Cajun seafood spots, many of which are perfect for crawfish when it’s in season. But what about when it’s not? Gumbo season, baby.
I’ve got a few places I keep in my Rolodex when I’m feeling a nostalgic penchant to fill my belly with the flavors of Louisiana, but one of my favorites is Crawfish Haven Seafood and Catering. This bright red, wood building on Goodman Road specializes in to-go Cajun food, from etouffee to catfish to boudin. The dentist’s office-sized waiting room is lovingly filled with the lingering aromas of Cajun spices, and Food Network shows always seem to be playing on the tiny TV in the corner.
It’s an endearing place to spend a few minutes waiting for your food on a dreary November day. On the more pleasant days, the self-seating patio attached to the side of the building opens, drawing lively gatherings during crawfish season.
Crawfish Haven Seafood and Catering in Horn Lake on Goodman Road specializes in to-go Cajun food, from etouffee to catfish to boudin. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)
Crawfish Haven offers a plethora of Cajun Creole cuisine, but a couple of dishes under $10 are some of the best (and most iconic) on the menu. On my last trip there, I went with a pint each of gumbo ($9.99) and jambalaya ($8.99) and an order of boudin balls ($6.99).
The jambalaya with sausage and chicken was solid, filled with plenty of andouille, chicken thighs and well-cooked rice, but it was slightly underseasoned. A bit of Crystal Hot Sauce did the trick.
The gumbo, on the other hand, was a deep and lovely chocolate color — the sign of a well-made roux. It was not short of a generous mix of okra, shrimp, chicken and andouille sausage suspended in a thick and velvety broth.
But the boudin balls were my favorite. Silky ground pork and rice sausage are rolled and fried to a create gingerly bound balls. In Acadia, the best boudin balls — besides those you get at the homes of friends or family — are the ones you find at gas stations. It’s safe to say that the boudin balls at Crawfish Haven are right up there with the gas station gourmet of Louisiana: soft, tender, highly seasoned, well-spiced and moister than you can ask for. They’re served with a side of rich, orange remoulade sauce meant for heavy dipping.
If you’re feeling a bout of seasonal mood-shifting like I am, warm your soul at Crawfish Haven.
Crawfish Haven Seafood and Catering, located at 2100 Goodman Road W., is open Tuesdays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; and Fridays and Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. For more info, call (662) 470-7113.
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