There are few things more soul-healing than a good bowl of pho. When maladies have me by the head or the heart, not much else will do.

But, maladies beware: Vietnamese is booming in Memphis.

It seems like every month there’s a new restaurant sprouting up and slinging steamy bowls of soup noodles and crusty banh mi. And, while it might seem like an oversaturation to some, I wholeheartedly disagree.

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I brag about the Vietnamese scene in Memphis to all of my out-of-town friends because, well, it’s good. Really good. But part of what makes it so good is the niche each new Vietnamese restaurant carves out for itself.

About three weeks ago, I Love Pho Great Asian Eatery opened at the corner of Perkins Extended and Southern Avenue in the building that used to be a One & Only BBQ. The name — particularly “Asian Eatery” — caught my eye. Is this a Vietnamese spot or a fusion joint? Some all-encompassing-survey of pan-Asian food? 

The answer is: Sort of. The menu bounces between a few hyper-specific regional dishes and some less-specific ones of dubious origin. Cross-bridge (or Crossing-the-bridge) noodles — a hot-pot-esque rice noodle soup from China’s Yunnan province — takes out some big real estate on the page. A Rolodex of different skewered and grilled meats (perhaps an homage to the street carts of Saigon?) are highlighted in red font. There are a few banh mi, some cold appetizers and some stir-fried noodles of unspecified Asian cuisine. 

But — hence the name of this place — I figured the pho was obligatory upon the first visit. 

As with most pho restaurants, there are several variants to pick from, including some more bourgeois options such as short rib for $20 and wild lobster tail for $24. But, for the sake of a bargain, I went old school: A small bowl of beef noodle pho for $11.99. 

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This is the cheapest bowl of soup on the menu, and you’d never guess it. It’s classic and traditional: Thin, raw slices of round eye get folded and bunched on top of a mound of noodles and drowned in hot broth. Garnishes of sliced yellow onion, scallion and cilantro accompany it, with sprigs of Thai basil, mung bean sprouts, lime and jalapeño on the side. The meat cooks slowly in the broth, changing gently to the color of the soup.

There’s nothing special about this bowl of pho except the quality of its ingredients — and that is the best kind. The meat is tender and choice. The noodles are chewy and al-dente. The garnish is aromatic and fresh. And the broth — the tell-tale sign of a good or bad bowl of pho — is excellent. Clean, rich and infused with the right amount of star anise and black cardamom. It’s smooth and understated, the perfect medium to complement the rest of the bowl.

I figured I had to try some meat skewers, too, since the text on the menu page was practically screaming at me. Nearly all options come in orders of three for about $10. I went with the lamb and have zilch in the way of complaints.

The meat is juicy and tender and sinus-clearingly smoky. The meat comes off the grill and is immediately doused in chili powder and chili flakes while it rests. The result is a street-food-style capsaicin-and-protein-packed snack. Maybe they’re a little pricey, at $10 for just three kebabs, but it tastes like you’re paying for quality of meat here. I’ll take quality over quantity any day, especially when it comes to meat.

If you’re looking for savory comforts as the clutch of Autumn falls upon us, check out I Love Pho. I’m overdue to run it back for the Cross-bridge noodles.

I Love Pho, located at 567 Perkins Extended, is open daily, 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.