$10 Deal: Guatemalan ‘surf and turf’ at Alicia Restaurante
The costilla de res con camarón is a platter meant to be shared. It comes with rib steaks, grilled shrimp and sides: spiced rice, black beans, iceberg lettuce with lime and tomato and macaroni salad. The plate also comes with warm tortillas and fresh salsa roja. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)
If you’re driving down Winchester Road and catch a glimpse of a giant blue sign that says “Restaurante Alicia,” pull in immediately.
This charming Guatemalan and Mexican eatery, with its airy dining room and festive vibe, draws folks in droves for big, family-sized plates. We’re not kidding. Whether you’re itching to try Pepián de Pollo (the national dish of Guatemala) or chuchitos (a type of tamale) on a weekend, or something more universal on a weekday, Alicia’s got your back with plates big enough to share — or hoard, if you’re feeling especially hungry.
Case in point: the costilla de res con camarón. Consider this the Guatemalan version of “surf and turf,” only better because it comes at a price that might be shocking in a good way.
At $19, this massive platter is meant to be shared. Two people could easily split it and, if your dinner companions are on the daintier side, three might leave happy. You get rib steaks seared to smoky perfection, juicy grilled shrimp and a smorgasbord of sides: spiced rice, creamy black beans, iceberg lettuce with lime and tomato and macaroni salad. The plate also comes with warm tortillas and fresh salsa roja.
Here’s the pro move: Pile a little bit of everything — beef, shrimp, beans, rice, lettuce and salsa — into one of those tortillas and take a bite. The rib steak, with its charred edges and tender middle, balances beautifully with plump shrimp just kissed by the grill. The salsa’s acidity cuts through the richness of the meat, while the rice and beans add just enough comfort to make it all feel like home.
Oh, and that macaroni salad with the brick of piquant cheese? A creamy little wildcard that somehow works in the lineup.
Oddly, it’s the kind of meal that makes you think, “Yeah, I could eat this for breakfast, too.”
Lucky for you, Alicia Restaurante serves a habit-forming cup of black coffee spiced with canela and sweetened with cane sugar. It’s the perfect pairing — a sip of that warm, fragrant coffee and a bite of beef-and-shrimp-stuffed tortilla is about as close to bliss as it gets, especially when you’re stuck inside due to the weather.
Alicia’s dining room is the kind of place where families gather to celebrate and construction workers swing by for a well-earned lunch. You’ll overhear familial laughter, Telemundo flickering from TV screens and the occasional clinking of plates and glasses being ferried from the kitchen.
If you’ve got a hankering for something soul-soothing, Alicia Restaurante’s costilla de res con camarón is clutch. Bring a friend — or two — and dive into this glorious feast. And if you end up rolling out of there stuffed and clutching a to-go box? Congratulations, you’ve got lunch covered tomorrow.
Alicia Restaurante, located at 4284 Winchester Road, is open 9:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Thursdays through Saturdays; 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sundays; 10 a.m. to 8:45 p.m., Mondays; and 9:45 a.m.-8:45 p.m., Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
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$10 Deal Alicia RestauranteJoshua Carlucci
Joshua Carlucci is a writer and food journalist from Los Banos, California. He holds a BA in English from the University of California, Berkeley, a culinary diploma from the Institute of Culinary Education, and an MFA in Creative Writing from the University of Memphis, where he was managing editor of Pinch. His work has appeared or is forthcoming in The Brussels Review, Redivider, Gravy, EatingWell, Southern Living, and elsewhere. He is a staff writer at Brooklyn-based food and beverage industry magazine, StarChefs.Find more of his work on his website, joshuacarlucci.com.
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