Takashi Bistro is one of those unassuming spots that you might drive past — if you’re like me — a dozen times before realizing what you’re missing.

Tucked into a shopping plaza on Union Avenue, it’s sold as a Japanese bistro, but the menu sprawls far beyond that, rolling into pan-Asian territory with an entire Thai menu alongside sushi rolls that lean Japanese-American. If you’re in the mood for well-executed sushi, a warm bowl of soba or even something as unexpected as drunken noodles at a sushi joint, this is the place to be.

To start, the pepper tuna tataki, a raw appetizer, is a knockout at $11.95. A thick slab of ahi tuna is seared just enough to give the edges a smoky kiss while leaving the interior nearly bleu — just the way it should be. Sliced into precise, slender planks, the fish is carefully shingled over a bed of julienned cucumber, which has been lightly marinated in ponzu. The contrast between the crisp, refreshing cucumber and the buttery-soft tuna makes every bite impossibly clean. The knifework on this dish is impeccable — each slice of fish is uniform, delicate and expertly prepared. It’s a small but telling sign of the care that goes into the food here. If you’re the kind of person who appreciates simplicity done exceptionally well, this dish has serious replay value.

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Takashi’s take on drunken noodles (pad kee mao) is also impressive, especially considering that the majority of the restaurant’s menu skews Japanese. Its Thai flavors really hit the spot, especially in a town with a serious drought of such. For $16.95, a medley of vegetables — carrots, zucchini, onions, bean sprouts — is tucked beneath broad rice noodles with a savory, soy-based sauce. The beef, which was recommended by the server, was absolutely the right call: tender, flavorful and generously portioned.

The only slight letdown? The noodles weren’t quite as wide as the ultra-fat ones you might find at a dedicated Thai spot, but the flavors made up for it. I ordered medium spice, which ended up being on the mild side, but a side of chili oil took care of that quickly. Portion-wise, this dish is easily splittable, making the $16.95 price tag feel more than fair.

Takashi Bistro punches well above its weight class. While it doesn’t have the polish of a high-end sushi bar or a dedicated Thai restaurant, it delivers and succeeds in blurring the lines across both cuisines. If you want a beautifully presented appetizer that highlights the clean flavors of raw fish or a comforting, spice-kissed plate of noodles, this is a spot that deserves its marks.

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Takashi Bistro, located at 1680 Union Ave., is open 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 9 p.m., Mondays through Thursdays; 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 10 p.m. on Fridays; noon to 10 p.m. on Saturdays; and noon to 9 p.m. on Sundays.