It’s not hard to make a decent po’boy.

I do my best to eat within New Orleans’ Parasol’s and Parkway Bakery & Tavern pedigree, so the po’boy bar has been set high for me. And it is hard to make a po’boy that feels like it has a point of view.

But the fried shrimp po’boy from Ragin’ Cajun in Bartlett has one — and that point of view is: Pack it full and keep it simple. 

At first glance, the fried shrimp po’boy is a mess in the best way. It comes wrapped in crinkly paper already showing signs of oil bleed-through. Unwrap it and boom: you’re hit with that golden hour glow of fried shrimp peeking out from between two slabs of French bread, surrounded by stray shredded lettuce and a couple of tomato slices holding on for dear life.

What to Order: Who Dat Catfish at Ragin’ Cajun

This sandwich looks like it was assembled by someone in a hurry but in a way that suggests confidence, not chaos. Like, yeah, this thing’s thick. What of it?

The shrimp themselves are textbook. Not big but aplenty. They’re small, snappy and coated in just the right amount of cornmeal-based batter to give them crunch without feeling like you’re eating fried shell. No heavy grease. No soggy coating. These are shrimp that know what they’re doing. And there are so many of them. There’s no shrimp stinginess here — you could eat a few that fall out along the way and still be left with a sandwich that feels generous.

The bread also holds up nicely. It’s soft and slightly chewy on the inside, with a thin toasted crust that gives you just enough resistance before giving way to the shrimp avalanche inside. And yes, it’s the right kind of French bread — not too airy, not too thick, no weird sweetness. Just a classic po’boy loaf that acts like a stage instead of the main event.

There’s a thin swipe of mayo, a respectable showing of leg by the lettuce and tomato, and that’s it. No remoulade, no hot sauce built-in, no attempt to dress this thing up beyond recognition. You want it spicy? Grab a bottle of sauce. But honestly, it doesn’t need it. There’s a quiet confidence in letting the shrimp do the talking.

Louisiana native opens Ragin’ Cajun

Let’s also talk about the fries, but only briefly, because that’s about all they deserve. They’re fine. Hot. Lightly seasoned. Totally skippable. For an extra $4.50, they don’t add much to the meal other than taking up space. You’re here for the sandwich. The fries know it. You know it. We can all move on.

All in all, this po’boy nails the fundamentals: quality fry job, solid portion, no distractions. For $13.75, it’s not trying to impress you with flair. It’s trying to feed you a lot of shrimp in a short amount of time, and it succeeds. You could split it, but you probably won’t want to. And you’ll tell yourself you’ll save the other half for later, but that’s a lie you won’t keep.

Bring a drink. Skip the fries. Hold it over the paper and accept the fallout. High outdoor eatability. This one’s worth the mess.

Ragin’ Cajun, located at 2740 Bartlett Road in Bartlett, is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sundays through Thursdays; and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays.