Sure, it’s egg-frying hot outside, but that’s no reason to stay away from soul-satisfying food if it’s comfort you need.

Put down your mac and cheese for now, because there’s a new dish in town, something utterly soothing and delicious at Dory. 

Meet brandade, a soft and lush dish made of salt cod and potatoes, here silky with cream, kissed with fragrant and slightly spicy olive oil.

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It’s brandade in France, brandada in Spain, baccalà mantecato in Italy, and it doesn’t always have potatoes in it. It does at Dory, a fine dining restaurant that serves solely a tasting menu in the dining room.

The only place I remember buying salt cod in Memphis was at Montesi’s on Summer Avenue, and only at Christmastime. Brandade isn’t exactly a Southern staple, but I suspect you’ll love it as much as I do, particularly as prepared by Dory sous chef Brandon Burke.

“It’s all Brandon, who stumbled in here on a cold call and is absolutely brilliant,” said chef/owner Dave Krog.

Typically brandade is made by soaking salt cod, which is dried and fibrous, in water for a day or longer to remove most of the salt. When rehydrated and the salt largely gone, the cod is shredded and whipped with olive oil to make a creamy spread; potatoes are often but not always added.

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At Dory, it started with scraps.

“We are a no-waste restaurant, at least as much as we can be, and our goal is 100%,” Krog said. “We had cod on the menu, so we collected the end cuts, parts we didn’t use for the tasting menu, and froze it.

“When we started to write the new bar menu, we thought about the cod and making the brandade. I hadn’t had it since Erling’s and I said, ‘Look, this is great. We get to control the salt here.’ ”

Since it wasn’t being used as a preservative, Burke used salt to taste and was able to start the brandade with a milder fish.

It was a hit right away.

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The cod is poached in milk, and the potatoes are also cooked in milk. They’re riced, mixed with cream, and added to the cod, also mixed with cream. When it’s served, a generous drizzle of olive oil is poured over and cracked black pepper finishes it.

Served in a bowl made from river rock, the brandade comes with toasted slices of house-baked sourdough bread. The most humble ingredients — fish scraps, potatoes and bread — create a luxurious and deeply gratifying dish that begs for a glass of wine.

I enjoyed mine with a Bermuda Triangle, a creative and light rum cocktail, as I was sampling several appetizers from the bar menu, including pork belly sliders, fontina sliders (jalapeno pepper jelly and melted fontina on the excellent and buttery Parker House rolls made in-house) and chili-glazed oysters.

Most of these items will be available for another couple of weeks, but as the bar menu is part of the restaurant’s zero-waste program, they’ll change as the tasting menu changes.

The brandade will remain.

“We have such a huge demand for it that we’ll have to order cod for it instead of using the scraps,” Krog said. “It ended up being something we’ll keep on the menu.”

The bar at Dory, 716 W. Brookhaven Circle, opens at 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday; call 901-310-4290.