If you’re caught up on the new season of “The Bear,” don’t spoil it for me. Despite the lukewarm reviews going around, I feel a kinship to Carmy, Richie and Syd, and I still have an insatiable hunger for Italian beef sandwiches.

There’s a lot about the quintessential Chicago sandwich that doesn’t make sense. Really, it shouldn’t work. The meat is always kind of overcooked; the bread is intentionally soggy (nay, soaking wet) and the sandwich is completely sauceless.

The thing is, it does work. It works really well — that is, when it’s done right. There are plenty of bad, sad and ugly iterations of the Chicagoan Italian beef out there. It usually always comes down to the braise being under-seasoned and overcooked, so the beef, which is the crux of the sandwich, is dry and flavorless. Most of these iterations are, of course, found outside the Windy City.

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But, as you may know, the pipeline between the Delta South and Chicago is strong, and it has been ever since The Great Migration. While you might be more likely to see influences in Chicago from its southern hinterland than vice versa, Memphis has its fair share of good food from up north. In fact, I covered a great Chicago dog from The Slider Inn not too long ago.

And yet, there’s more.

Down on Winchester Road near Memphis International Airport is Mr. Rusty’s Real Taste of Chicago. It’s a ramshackle little shop serving up exactly what you’d expect from the name. There are Chicago dogs, Italian beef sandwiches and Polish and Italian sausages abound. But there’s also plenty of other American comfort food to pick from: Wings, burgers, Philly cheesesteaks. The list goes on. But I came for the beef.

I got my Italian beef sandwich the only way I know how: hot and dipped. It may or may not sound sexy to you, but this is actual Italian beef terminology. Before you go ordering one yourself, you should familiarize yourself with the nomenclature.

First, figure out whether you want your sandwich to be “sweet” or “hot.” Basically, these adjectives refer to the giardiniera — the Italian pickled veggies — that will garnish your sandwich. You can get sweet or spicy giardiniera, with the difference being akin to that of a bread-and-butter pickle versus a spicy dill pickle.

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Next, decide how sloppy you want it. There are three choices: “dry,” “wet” or “dipped.”

The beef on an Italian beef is braised in a flavorful liquid — referred to as “gravy” — which is then, if you like, used as a condiment on the sandwich. “Dry” means no gravy. “Wet” means a loving ladle or two of gravy. And “dipped” is a veteran-level of moisture, meaning they take tongs and dunk and drown the whole darn sandwich in the gravy. Generally, the more moist your beef is, the more gravy it soaks up and therefore, the more flavorful (and, well … wet) it will be.

You can also get your beef with cheese (usually mozzarella) if you choose. I’m neither here nor there about the cheese — it just depends on what mood I’m in. 

Getting to the meat here, Rusty’s makes a mean, mean Italian beef. The giardiniera is hot and sour; the bread is good and crusty (for a moment); the beef is tasty and juicy; and the gravy is prime. Hot and dipped is an absolute mess to eat (you’ll need a fork) but the juice is worth the squeeze — and the extra napkins. 

An Italian Beef at Rusty’s is only $9.50, and you can make it a combo with fries and a drink for an extra of couple bucks. It’s a solid, cheap lunch, but a fair warning: It will likely leave you in a food coma for the rest of the day.

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Mr. Rusty’s Real Taste of Chicago, located at 1859 Winchester Road, is open weekdays from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.