$10 Deal: Malia’s rib tips — no frills, all flavor
Malia’s is in a small, yellow-and-black shack on Park Avenue in the Messick Buntyn neighborhood and has been a staple for more than a decade. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)
If you’re on the hunt for real-deal barbecue in Memphis, look no further than Malia’s on Park Avenue in the Messick Buntyn neighborhood.
This small, yellow-and-black shack has been a staple for more than a decade, serving up smoky, tender meats that are worth planning your weekend around. Yes, I said your weekend — And that’s because Malia’s is only open Fridays and Saturdays.
But there’s something magical about knowing you’ve got just two days to grab a taste, making it all the more special when you do.
The rib tips from Malia’s are succulent and fall-apart tender. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)
Real meatheads know the spotlight has shifted to sit-down, restaurant-style barbecue taking the spotlight. But Malia’s feels like a throwback in all the best ways. There are no frills, no flashy signs and certainly no glossy Instagram campaigns. It’s just good people, good smoke and meat cooked the old-fashioned way — low and slow on a reverse-flow offset smoker parked right next to the stand.
The singular smoker is the heart of Malia’s, and you can smell it doing its thing well down the block, long before you see the shack.
The folks at Malia’s are also as warm as the pit they tend; they are soft-spoken and incredibly kind. There’s no rush, no pretense.
But let’s talk about the food. The rib tips are, without question, my favorite in Memphis. Priced at $10.50 for a small (pictured) or $12.50 for a large, the rib tips are succulent and fall-apart tender. Picking up a piece from the styrofoam box practically feels like a magic trick — the bones slip out clean, leaving nothing but melt-in-your-mouth pork and a tangy barbecue sauce tailored perfectly to the meat. The sauce has just the right amount of acidity to balance the richness of the ribs, and the white bread on the side is there to sop up the grease left behind. There’s nothing fancy here. But when the meat is this good, you don’t need fancy.
The wings at Malia’s are served whole with the wingtips still attached. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)
If you’re in the mood for chicken, Malia’s wings are a must. True to Memphis tradition, they’re served whole — yes, with the wingtips still attached. You can get four for $8 or six for $12, and either way, they’re kissed with just the right amount of char and finished with a sweeter barbecue sauce that really pares off that smoke.
For the indecisive among us, the combo plate is the way to go. At $16, it’s a feast that gives you the best of both worlds: a hearty helping of rib tips and wings, plus the usual sides of bread, tangy mustard-based coleslaw and extra sauce for dipping. Speaking of the coleslaw, it deserves its own moment of appreciation. Packed with dill pickles and bright with yellow mustard, it’s a tangy counterpoint to the adjoining meats.
The setup at Malia’s is as no-nonsense as the food. The shack is weathered and well-loved, with hand-painted lettering and a menu nailed to a wooden plank.
There’s no indoor seating, no credit card machine and no frills. It’s cash or CashApp only, so come prepared. But that simplicity is part of what makes Malia’s so special. It’s not trying to be anything other than what it is. Take it or leave it.
Malia’s is one of the places that reminds you why Memphis is the barbecue capital of the world. Weekends only. All killer, no filler.
Malia’s, located at 3262 Park Ave., is open Fridays and Saturdays, 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Call (901) 502-7229 for more information.
Topics
$10 Deal barbecueJoshua Carlucci
Joshua Carlucci is a writer and food journalist from Los Banos, California. He holds a BA in English from the University of California, Berkeley, a culinary diploma from the Institute of Culinary Education, and an MFA in Creative Writing from the University of Memphis, where he was managing editor of Pinch. His work has appeared or is forthcoming in The Brussels Review, Redivider, Gravy, EatingWell, Southern Living, and elsewhere. He is a staff writer at Brooklyn-based food and beverage industry magazine, StarChefs.Find more of his work on his website, joshuacarlucci.com.
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