For those who were afraid that Midtown staple Barksdale’s would reopen with mimosa fountains, grass walls and punny neon signs, do not fear.

The mimosas are a few weeks away, at least. 

‘The same but better’ — Barksdale’s to reopen next week

Barksdale’s officially reopened Monday, April 14, after a fire last summer and the subsequent sale of the restaurant previously known as Bob’s Barksdale. 

New owners Ryan Glosson and Heather and Bryant Bain plan to serve alcohol but otherwise have made efforts to retain the restaurant’s casual diner atmosphere and simple, Southern food.

I went for breakfast during the soft opening. Aside from extra excitement from both patrons and staff, the ambiance felt the same. The original walls are still covered in photos and posters and lined with booths. Longtime staff have returned.

The menu still offers omelets, breakfast plates and biscuit sandwiches, just like the old Bob’s Barksdale. I ordered a Greek omelet with hash browns and a biscuit, and my friend wisely chose the country-fried steak plate with two eggs over medium, hash browns and a biscuit. 

“I wanted to make sure the biscuit — a true Southern breakfast staple — was absolutely amazing,” Bryant Bain said. “I started developing the recipe back in July when we first started talking with (former owner Beth Henry), and I just kept tweaking it until it felt perfect.” 

Breakfast will soon be back at Barksdale restaurant

I have witnessed the square, cakey biscuit trend on breakfast menus in different restaurants, which can leave the bread dry and crumbly. 

But Barksdale’s version held up: The biscuits were baked to a golden-brown, brushed with sticky, honey butter and a generous dash of Maldon salt. The inside was tender with a gentle twang of buttermilk. The biscuit did not crumble or break when I placed a bite of my omelet between the two halves and fashioned my own breakfast sandwich, which is a good thing because these biscuits have much bigger steak to fry. 

A new breakfast icon? 

The best thing we ordered was the hearty country-fried steak plate.

Bain said he hopes it becomes the “iconic item” from the new Barksdale’s menu. 

“Being from Texas, it’s in my blood,” he said.

Barksdale restaurant bought by Bain Barbecue owners

According to Bain, they use a top round steak, pounded out in-house and coated in their own seasoned breading. Each steak is breaded and fried to order.

It had all the best qualities of schnitzel — tender meat you can nearly cut with a fork, wrapped in crispy, rippled breading — and the country part: a peppery, rich cream gravy. This is not to be confused with the lighter-colored sausage gravy that comes with the biscuits and gravy plate.

You can also order it in biscuit sandwich form with a slice of American cheese and scrambled eggs (the Lone Star) or as the plate if you want to sample the hash browns.

Bain and the kitchen team also upgraded the griddle cakes, using batter made by hand daily rather than a box mix. The result is not a fluffy uniform pancake, but a true griddle-fried flapjack, served in short or tall stacks.

To avoid the impossible choice of sweet or savory breakfast, simply order a short stack for the table and share. The “Back Porch” syrup is house-made with brown sugar, cane syrup and “just a touch” of blackstrap molasses, according to Bain.

“The goal is to spark some nostalgia for the older generation and introduce the younger folks to something special they might not usually try.”

Bob’s Barksdale to be sold — but expected to reopen

The same but different

Indulging in a little of my own nostalgia, I looked through my phone at Barksdale photos taken over the years: cheesy scrambled eggs and bacon, plastic biscuit baskets and mugs of plain black coffee. In the backgrounds are cluttered walls, people at tables and servers rushing past with coffee carafes. In the new incarnation, most of this is unchanged.

For me, Barksdale’s has been a place for a quick, affordable meal before work or in between meetings. It’s a place where I often dined solo and always felt welcome and well-fed. In my experience, the new owners have gotten as close to this same experience as they could. 

While the prices have bumped up a few bucks, it feels like we could say the same for everything, everywhere. More of the menu is made from scratch while other items are tried-and-true, such as Williams Country Sausage patties. Not everything at every restaurant needs to be bespoke. If ain’t broke ...

While I was not a part of Barksdale’s meat-and-three lunch crowd, I hope to be soon. They offer daily specials such as meatloaf (Thursdays) and fried chicken (Saturdays) and Southern vegetables for meat-and-twos or -threes or veggie plates. 

Bob’s Barksdale temporarily closes due to fire

Barksdale’s, located at 237 S. Cooper St., is open daily, 7 a.m. - 2 p.m. Breakfast is served until 10:45 a.m. on weekdays.