It’s that time of year, the time when you — I — start wondering if depression is only seasonal.

Whether it’s the sun coming out or my soul rising from the ashes of winter, this weather’s got me fiending for sushi.

I’m not super picky with my sushi. I ask only that it’s fresh, consistent and of a reasonable value — meaning not necessarily cheap but worth the money.

$10 Deal: Global Cafe’s sambusas, soup and sandwiches

I’ve consumed a lot of raw and cooked fish in my life, some worth hundreds of dollars and some under 10 dollars, but the spectrum of best to worst is not as clear cut as you might expect. Some of my favorite sushi — rolls mainly, but nigiri and sashimi, too — has been on the less expensive side because, of course, the ingredients are fresh and delicious. But the technique and care are present as well. And it wasn’t that I left those meals thinking: “Wow, that was cheap.” Rather, it was: “Wow, I definitely got my money’s worth.”

There’s a fine balance between quantity and quality that I look for in everyday sushi — and most food, really — and the Midtown Sekisui straddles that line with the best of them. I love eating here. The vibes are immaculate; the staff is chill but good; and the food is well-executed and fairly priced. The best part is you can order what feels like a rather opulent lunch for under $30 or just a regular lunch for under $10.

I last visited on a Wednesday at about 1 p.m., an hour before the restaurant’s lunch service ended. Sekisui was almost empty, save for a couple at the bar and myself at a table, and the music was retro and good. I scanned the menu for what sang a siren song to me for $10 or less.

I started with the wasabi shu-mai ($7.95), which is spicy steamed pork enveloped in a green, wasabi-flavored dumpling wrapper, served with soy sauce and vinegar plus a little dollop of hot mustard on the side. I prefer the mustard stirred right into the soy sauce and vinegar — as one might, apologies to the “purists” out there — which makes dipping all that much more potent. The shu-mai is lovingly seasoned on its own, but the sauces make it even more umami-rich, spicy and sweet.

This is a great appetizer to share but an equally good one to take down alone and without shame.

Next up: the soft shell crab roll ($9.95). I have a soft spot for soft shell crab. It’s just always something I have to get when I have a feeling it’s gonna be good, even if my preference leans toward the raw side of things. And I’m right about the crab at Sekisui — it’s really good.

The soft shell is lightly tempura-fried and crispy and rolled up with cucumber, scallions, turnips and pickled burdock root for a lovely, tactile and gustatory contrast. The acid in the pickles cuts the richness of the crab right in half.

Finally — and perhaps a curveball — I opted for the kitsune udon with seafood broth and sweet, marinated tofu ($9.95). Simple stuff, but it warms the soul in whatever weather. The seafood broth is hearty but light; the udon is fat and chewy, as it should be; and the tofu is sliced in thin, flat triangles, lightly fried, and marinated in a sweet and citrusy sauce. The soup is accompanied by bottles of togarashi and chili oil, which can be added as liberally or conservatively as desired.

Whether you come starving or with half an appetite, Sekisui does the trick. There are additional menu items priced under $10 that I haven’t written about, so you have plenty of delicious options. 

Sekisui Midtown, located at 25 South Belvedere Blvd., is open for lunch Mondays through Fridays from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. It’s open for dinner Sundays through Thursdays from 5 to 9:30 p.m. and Fridays and Saturdays from 5 to 10:30 p.m.