$10 Deal: Grit Bowl at Barksdale’s sticks to your bones
The Grit Bowl at Barksdale’s has Delta Grind grits at the base with a sunny-side-up egg, breakfast sausage, ranchero sauce and avocado. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)
We are so back.
Last summer’s fire at Bob’s Barksdale felt like a gut punch. Smoke damage shut down the beloved Midtown institution, and for a while it seemed like the end of a seven-decade run.
But thanks to Bryant and Heather Bain, along with Ryan Glosson — who also co-own Bain Barbecue — the diner has risen from the ashes like a phoenix: reborn, walls intact, soul intact and better than ever.
The renovations are clean and intentional. The wood paneling that lined the dining room for decades still stands, but the bones around it have shifted. The counter’s been rotated 90 degrees, which sounds like a minor detail until you sit there.
Now you get the best of both worlds: “M*A*S*H” still hums from the TV up above, and below you’ve got a clear line of sight straight down to the cooks rocking at the pass. It’s the kind of morning theater that makes the first sip of coffee hit ever headier.
On to the Grit Bowl.
From the updated menu, this one might be the best expression of Bryant Bain’s culinary DNA: Southern roots laced with Tex-Mex flair. Think huevos rancheros meets Delta comfort.
At the base, Delta Grind grits: locally milled, coarse enough to hold structure but creamy like they’ve been coaxed for hours. They aren’t filler; they’re basic foundation. Every element on top sings because the grits are dialed in hard.
The counter at Barksdale’s has “M*A*S*H” still humming from the TV up above, and below you’ve got a clear line of sight straight down to the cooks. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)
Then comes the egg sunny-side-up, yolk intact and golden. It’s made to pop and meld into the mix with the rest. Chorizo brings the heat and funk, though they were out the last time I ordered the bowl. They subbed breakfast sausage, which worked just as well. The ranchero sauce adds this smoky, tangy depth. Avocado smooths out the edges, queso fresco brings that clean saltiness and chopped cilantro ties it all up.
Every bite is layered, balanced and rich without being too heavy. This one sticks to your bones; the perfect reward after an early morning workout. And only $10.49.
Hold up, we’re not finished.
Order a side hash browns: two for $3.79. They’re patties, golden and crisp at the edges, soft in the center. Familiar but sharper and smarter than what you remember from the McDonald’s drive-thru. Here’s the move: hit them with a shake of salt and a drizzle of the house-made syrup. Sweet, salty, hot and just enough greasy to feel indulgent without regretting it. You might come back just for those.
The new Barksdale’s and its menu respect what came before it. But the touch of a working chef — someone who’s been in the heat, behind the line and knows how to layer flavor — makes all the difference.
The hash-brown patties from Barksdale’s are golden and crisp at the edges and soft in the center. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)
Barksdale’s feels lived-in again. From the corner booths to the pass, it hums with the same early-morning energy that made it a fixture for years and years. Hopefully, it’s got even more ahead of it.
Long live Bob’s.
Barksdale’s, located at 237 Cooper St., is open daily 7 a.m.-2 p.m.
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Joshua Carlucci
Joshua Carlucci is a writer and food journalist from Los Banos, California. He holds a BA in English from the University of California, Berkeley, a culinary diploma from the Institute of Culinary Education, and an MFA in Creative Writing from the University of Memphis, where he was managing editor of Pinch. His work has appeared or is forthcoming in The Brussels Review, Redivider, Gravy, EatingWell, Southern Living, and elsewhere. He is a staff writer at Brooklyn-based food and beverage industry magazine, StarChefs.Find more of his work on his website, joshuacarlucci.com.
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