City’s sole tasting-only menu restaurant to add a la carte ordering
Since Dory opened its doors in East Memphis two years ago, chef David Krog and his wife, Amanda, have operated their restaurant using a six-course, prix fixe tasting menu — the sole restaurant in Memphis relying on a tasting-only menu.
But, soon, the seasonal fine dining restaurant will take on an entirely new concept.
On Thursday, Aug. 3, Dory will relaunch with an a la carte menu, meaning that diners will be able order from a menu of full-sized appetizers, entrees and desserts.
David and Amanda Krog are the owners of Dory restaurant at 716 W. Brookhaven Circle in East Memphis. (Courtesy Ashley Weaver Photography)
“We’ve been a ticketless restaurant for two and a half years,” said David Krog, executive chef and co-owner at Dory. “It’s like opening an entirely new restaurant.”
The change might be new and dramatic to those familiar with Dory’s current format. But for the Krogs, the changes reflect how they originally envisioned the restaurant back in 2018.
Before Dory, David Krog’s last position was executive chef and general manager of Interim.
“There would be as many people standing in the dining room as there would be sitting,” Amanda Krog, co-owner and director of operations at Dory, said of Interim.
“It was an upscale restaurant that, when I was there, was moving heavily toward farm (to table), because that was where my passion was, and is,” David Krog added. “But it was still a neighborhood restaurant. The bar had the same people in it every day.”
The combination of refined dining and familiar hospitality was exactly what the Krogs wanted to create in their own restaurant.
“We wanted to create a space that felt like family,” Amanda Krog said. “You want to be at a place where everybody knows your name, right?”
The menu at Dory includes seared scallops and steamed mussels with lemon risotto and citrus beurre blanc. (Courtesy Ashley Weaver Photography)
But the pandemic had other things in mind for the then-soon-to-be restaurant owners.
Shipping and supply chain shortages, along with permit and building code setbacks, delayed Dory’s opening by about a year. Then, local COVID restrictions on restaurants’ maximum occupancy necessitated that Dory open at a quarter of total capacity. For Dory, that meant about 20 guests.
As December 2020 came around, the Krogs, having already hired staff, realized that they had no choice but to open. The restaurant had to start making money, and an a la carte menu wasn’t going to cut it. The couple had to guarantee that nightly receipts would be consistent, which could only be done through a prix fixe menu and a set price per head.
It worked, and this is how Dory has operated ever since. Until now.
Back to the beginning
“Our business plan was ... to be an intentionally sourced, a la carte restaurant with a four-seat counter tasting in the kitchen,” David Krog said. “What that turned into, out of necessity, was a full-blown tasting menu restaurant with an extended 15-course tasting at the counter.”
Though Dory’s tasting menu-only concept was necessary, the Krogs don’t regret it, either.
It allowed them to research and develop more than 300 original menu items over the course of the past two years. It also meant new seasonal dishes even to Dory’s regulars. But the time has come, the couple said, to chase the dream they had five years ago.
The new menu includes Hudson Valley duck breast with kohlrabi dauphinoise cooked in duck fat, chard and chicken demi glace. (Courtesy Ashley Weaver Photography)
“We don’t want anyone to think that we are putting a negative layover on what we’ve been doing,” Amanda Krog said. “We’re just really excited about doing this.”
Many of the items on the new menu are bulked-up and refined classics of dishes featured on the restaurant’s past seasonal tasting menus. Some of the dishes the Krogs are most excited about are new takes on their signature classics: A salad of peeled sungold and heirloom tomato with a clarified consomme of tomato skins, extra virgin olive oil and Maldon salt; skin-seared redfish with saffron brodo and green garlic mostarda; Hudson Valley duck breast with kohlrabi dauphinoise cooked in duck fat, chard and chicken demi glace.
Those with dietary restrictions will also continue to be accommodated. Under the new Dory menu, however, those requests will not need to be reported in advance of a reservation. In fact, although the Krogs would still recommend making a reservation, diners may not need one at all. The restaurant will now reserve a small number of tables for walk-ins each night.
“People come in and dine with us, and often they tell us that they can’t put a finger on the seamlessness of the service. It’s intentional, but personal. David calls it ‘Hey Y’all’ service,’” Amanda Krog said.
In total, the main dining room will have 42 tables for a la carte service, not including 20 seats in the upstairs private dining room, which will be used for parties of eight to 20, overflow service, and wine dinners. Dory’s bar area will be able to serve 14 diners and will continue to serve its own separate menu of bar snacks and small plates only. And of course, tasting menu loyalists can still get their fix — a six to eight course tasting be offered at the four-seat chef’s counter three nights a week, available via reservation only.
“Me cooking personally for four people, and having that conversation for two hours, is kind of how I got here,” David Krog said. “It helps me stay connected to the people that eat with us, which is probably 80% what I love about cooking.”
Through all of the changes, the Krogs and their team are as busy as ever; they’re not closing the restaurant between the transition.
Dory will host its last prix fixe-only service on Saturday, July 29. The a la carte menu will launch on Thursday, August 3 — after two friends and family practice services — with reservations available a month in advance.
“For me and Amanda and the staff, this is something we are all really excited about. No one is going into this that doesn’t want this change,” David Krog said.
The Krogs’ excitement even extends to their daughter, Doris, who also has her own stake in the new menu.
“The best part about the kid’s menu is that Doris is writing it,” David Krog said. “If you could take a look at her whiteboard, you’d see she’s a pretty darn good cook.”
When asked about the dish she’s most excited about creating, Doris didn’t answer. She’s been as busy as her parents have, working on surprises of her own.
Dory, 716 W. Brookhaven Circle, will launch its a la carte service on Thursday, Aug. 3. The bar will open at 4 p.m. and the kitchen will be open from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., Tuesdays through Saturdays.
Topics
Dory RestaurantJoshua Carlucci
Joshua Carlucci is a writer and food journalist from Los Banos, California. He holds a BA in English from the University of California, Berkeley, a culinary diploma from the Institute of Culinary Education, and an MFA in Creative Writing from the University of Memphis, where he was managing editor of Pinch. His work has appeared or is forthcoming in The Brussels Review, Redivider, Gravy, EatingWell, Southern Living, and elsewhere. He is a staff writer at Brooklyn-based food and beverage industry magazine, StarChefs.Find more of his work on his website, joshuacarlucci.com.
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