Maciel’s latest is a taqueria, not tortas and tacos, and it’s open
Maciel’s Taqueria located at 3397 Summer Ave. is open noon-10:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays and noon-11 p.m. Fridays-Sundays. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)
Joshua Carlucci
Joshua Carlucci is a writer and food journalist from Los Banos, California. He holds a BA in English from the University of California, Berkeley, a culinary diploma from the Institute of Culinary Education, and an MFA in Creative Writing from the University of Memphis, where he was managing editor of Pinch. His work has appeared or is forthcoming in The Brussels Review, Redivider, Gravy, EatingWell, Southern Living, and elsewhere. He is a staff writer at Brooklyn-based food and beverage industry magazine, StarChefs.Find more of his work on his website, joshuacarlucci.com.
There is something both arduous and ardent about getting back to basics. For Manuel Martínez, owner of Memphis’ popular Maciel’s Tortas & Tacos restaurants, his logical next step is a step backward to the most elemental form of Mexican cooking: tacos.
“We’ve focused on creating traditional recipes with fresh, bold flavors that capture the essence of Mexican street food,” Martínez said. “It’s about making people feel like they’re getting a genuine taste of tradition, something they won’t find just anywhere.”
Observant fans of the brand will notice this third location of Maciel’s — which opens Wednesday, Oct. 23 — doesn’t have a “Tacos and Tortas” after it but is a “Taqueria” instead.
This new location at 3397 Summer Ave. has been in the works for more than a year. Now with the space finally ready for a crowd, Maciel’s Taqueria is flaunting its street-food swagger with an extensive offering of all things meat and tortillas.
It’s got the digs for it, too. If you’ve ever eaten around the hipper and gentrifying La Condesa and La Roma neighborhoods of Mexico City, the new Maciel’s will feel familiar to you. The garage-esque space — with its concrete walls and floors, big bay windows and neon lights — makes it feel strikingly similar to Mexico City’s popular Taqueria Orinoco.
On the Maciel’s menu, you’ll find tacos in many forms: street tacos, tacos norteños, tacos del pacifico, fried tacos and tacos de lechuga. There are also tortas, burritos, nachos and other things for those looking to eat beyond the basics. But we say, when in Rome. In Mexico City, get street tacos.
Classic Mexican street tacos are all about the meat. Besides the onion and cilantro on top, the meat’s the only thing riding the tortilla. And that means it needs to buck up.
But Maciel’s Taqueria seems to be doing things right. With an amalgamation of meat options to choose from, from pastor (trompo-roasted pork) and tinga (spicy chicken) to lengua (beef tongue) and suadero (brisket), you’ve got a lot to work with. So, how to choose?
Observant fans of the brand will notice this third location of Maciel’s — which opens Wednesday, Oct. 23 — doesn’t have a “Tacos and Tortas” after it but is a “Taqueria” instead. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)
Luckily, the street tacos are only $3.50 each, so sampling a platter’s worth is simple. I got five to make sure I was as well-rounded as possible: asada, pastor, chorizo, birria and quesabirria.
Sadly, they were out of lengua — which is my favorite, go-to taco meat — but I lived.
The meat here is good — greasy, juicy. Generally, what you want in a street taco.
By far, though, I was most impressed with the asada and the chorizo. The asada was perfectly balanced between that smoky char and fatty chew. The chorizo was coated in cumin and heavy on the chili. Both went down perfectly with a healthy squeeze of lime and the trio of salsas that come by the bottle to your table.
The aguas frescas are legit here, too. I got Jamaica, a sweet-tart iced tea made from hibiscus flowers, which was a refreshing juxtaposition to the copious amount of protein I consumed.
For Manuel Martínez, owner of Memphis’ popular Maciel’s Tortas & Tacos restaurants, his logical next step is a step backward to the most elemental form of Mexican cooking: tacos. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)
If you’re like me and like to watch your food cooked, take a seat facing the open kitchen. Through the glass, you’ll be able to watch as they cycle though one endlessly appetizing meat after another.
Maciel’s Taqueria located at 3397 Summer Ave. is open noon-10:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays and noon-11 p.m. Fridays-Sundays.
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