The first time I tasted food from Trap Fusion, I was at Taste of the Boulevard at Mississippi Boulevard Christian Church. It was 2019; the event wasn’t held, of course, in 2020.

It’s a walk-around, where you go to various tables and get a sample of what’s being cooked. It was a wild day as there were nearly 1,000 people there, a crew was filming “Someone Feed Phil,” and I’d just tasted Marvin Wright’s lemon butter pound cake and was immediately converted. I don’t like lemon cake, but that thing was outrageous and I worked him hard to get the recipe (didn’t happen).

Shrimp, ribs, cakes, pie — it was all at Taste of the Boulevard

After I sat down to eat and got a taste of the Korean short ribs from Trap Fusion, I walked over to talk to the guy who made them, but co-owner Jason Gardner had already served everything and packed up. It was the best thing (OK, besides that cake) I tasted on a day that is always full of fabulous food.

I made a note to get over to Trap Fusion, but then 2020 came and I don’t know about you, but I got a little off track. Long story over, I finally made my first visit there this weekend to kick off the first of a week of mini-reviews for Memphis Black Restaurant Week.

There are 21 restaurants participating this year, and you can find the full list here.

Black Restaurant Week returns, with its largest lineup to date

I was torn on what to order, as I was getting takeout and wanted it to travel well. Yet I couldn’t pass up fried catfish, because it’s my thing, and served on cheese grits sounded doubly up my alley. But how do you say no to a spicy beef patty?

You don’t. In fact, you add a jerk chicken patty and a curry chicken patty to the order, all found under the “Side Piece” section of the menu, then scoot right home so everything is fresh. Be sure to ask that the fish and the grits get packed separately. I assume this would happen even if you didn’t, but you have to take control of things when it comes to fried catfish. Don’t leave this to chance.

The food was as good as I expected, though about half the grits spilled in the bottom of the bag and made a big mess. There were more grits left than I was able to finish, but I think something sturdier than a Styrofoam clamshell container is in order; they need a lid.

But they were good, cheesy and a little peppy, but exactly spicy. The three strips of catfish remained crisp in their cornmeal dredge despite the 15 minutes or so in the car.

The spicy beef patty was delicious, with a soft crust and a spicy filling. It reminded me of the frozen ones I’d scout international markets for any time I returned home from the Caribbean in those days when, you know, we could travel. I longed for a Calypso sauce, fruity and fiery with mango and Scotch bonnets, but had none so I settled for a bit of pineapple habanero jelly mixed with Pickapeppa. Winner.

Trap Fusion snags emergency cash for COVID-19 comeback

In all, it was the curry chicken patty that made me set the rest aside and eat that for my meal. It reminded me of the curry I ate in a roti shop on St. Croix some years ago — spicy but a little creamy and while Indian in its parts, unmistakably Caribbean in its soul. It needed nothing. (Well, palm trees would’ve been a nice touch.)

There’s plenty more to try and the Cordova location is less than a mile north of Walnut Grove Road, easily accessible from East Memphis. I’ll go again. The original location at 4637 Boeingshire Drive in Whitehaven is also participating in MBRW.

Trap Fusion, 690 N. Germantown Parkway; 901-207-5565. Both locations are open Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m.-7 p.m.