New Eats: Dim Sum King offers 129 dishes, some of it delivered directly to your table
Kobe Zeng is the managing partner at Dim Sum King. The restaurant is open daily at 5266 Summer Ave. (Jennifer Biggs/The Daily Memphian)
Dim Sum King is open, and lines were out the door at peak times over the weekend.
Folks love a dumpling, so go early, go late or prepare to wait.
Despite its name, Dim Sum King is more than dim sum; there’s also a menu of authentic Chinese food, though on opening weekend, the wait was for the small plates of dumplings and noodles, the egg tarts and the pan-fried turnip cake (and I’m still waiting on that one).
In August, Asian Palace owner Mike Woo sold his 30-year-old restaurant to veteran restaurateur King Chow, who also owns Chow Time, Lucky 8 in the Horseshoe Casino, China Inn and Captain King. In the past, he has owned Eat Well and Tao Too (now Asian Eatery).
Chow took over in early September, and the restaurant softly opened Friday, Sept. 30. It roared to life on Saturday, Oct. 1, and Sunday, Oct. 2, as regulars and curiosity seekers showed up to see what the new dim sum would be like.
I expected much of the same. Most dim sum standards at Asian Palace and Noodles in Bartlett were enough alike that I doubt I could have told you which I was eating if you tested me.
But I was surprised, and we’ll get right back to that.
First, here’s how you go about it. On Saturday and Sunday, you’re given a sheet with small, medium, large, extra-large and special items listed on it by category; everything in each section is the same price and they range from $4.35 to $8.95.
Carts are pushed around the restaurant, and when one comes to your table, you’re offered your choice from the selections on it. The server will stamp your sheet in more or less the right place, but certainly in the right category.
When you leave, it’s added up at the register.
There are multiple carts, so don’t feel you have to load up from one. Unless you speak Chinese, you’ll have a language barrier and you might make a mistake or two, but the good news is it’ll be an inexpensive one and the menu, albeit brief in description, is written in Chinese and English.
Most items are served two, three or four to a plate, the ultimate shareables. Some come in a small bowl — like the tiny steamed spare ribs that are approximately the diameter of a man’s thumb (and are messy and delicious, particularly when tossed in chili oil).
From back left: Steamed spare ribs, supreme soy sauce fried noodles, roasted duck and Cantonese roast pork belly. Dishes like these are served from carts at Dim Sum King. (Jennifer Biggs/The Daily Memphian)
Others are plates of noodles, and my table was taken with the supreme soy sauce fried noodle (large: $6.35). It’s a plate of very thin noodles, pan-fried until dry, served with bean sprouts and onions mixed in. This was new to me.
We also enjoyed the Cantonese roast pork belly, prepared simply and unadorned but meaty, with a crisp top, and the roasted duck, also prepared Cantonese style. Both were from the special section ($8.95) and generous.
Somehow my never-miss dim sum dish, the turnip cake, never made it to my table, and this weekend, there was no ordering from the menu in the hustle and bustle. But don’t miss it. It’s shredded daikon radish that’s cooked with different add-ins such as onion, Chinese sausage, perhaps dried shrimp.
Dip it in dumpling sauce, which is offered at Dim Sum King, or a mix of vinegar, soy sauce and chili oil. Think of whatever you want; I always think of my first bite, which was at the long-closed Lobster King with the late Silky Sullivan. I was no more eager to try something called turnip cake than you are, but I went along and, if you do it, you’ll also be glad.
Something else new on the dim sum menu for me were the barbecue pork buns, at least this variety.
These weren’t barbecue in a sweet fluffy bun but instead a tiny turnover, a super-flaky empanada. They came three to an order, and you’ll want at least one for everyone at your table (medium: $5.35).
From back left: Shrimp in eggplant, pan-fried taro pops, barbecue pork bun and egg tarts. The barbecue pork buns were flaky and similar to an empanada. (Jennifer Biggs/The Daily Memphian)
You’ll also find the basics: fried shrimp balls, shrimp and chive dumplings, Chinese broccoli with oyster sauce (unless you’re too late), shrimp har gow (another dumpling), chicken feet (not for me but very popular) and egg tarts (mildly sweet custard in pastry; love ’em).
But there’s curry cuttlefish, congee with pork and egg (I kept an eye out but never got it) and marinated cold jellyfish among the 49 items.
On the full menu, there’s a selection of items served in a clay pot, one served on sizzling plates, and appetizers ranging from crab Rangoon to crispy tofu to sliced beef and ox tongue in chili sauce.
There’s plenty of seafood, Cantonese and Peking duck, a selection of fried rice and noodle dishes, and plenty more — 129 dishes in total.
And those will have to wait for another day.
Dim Sum King, 5266 Summer Ave., is open Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m., and Sunday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Dim sum cart service is served until 3 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday; you can order dim sum from the menu during the week. Call 901-766-0831.
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Jennifer Biggs
Jennifer Biggs is a native Memphian and veteran food writer and journalist who covers all things food, dining and spirits related for The Daily Memphian.
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