On what would be a rather unassuming building on East Person Avenue in Castalia Heights sits a large logo. Arnold’s, it reads, the letters subsumed by red flames torrenting above them. Under the name sits a green, leafy underline.

The logo for Arnold’s Smokehouse is a perfect depiction of the restaurant it represents: It’s one with a menu divided perfectly in half for both carnivores and vegans.

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The brick-and-mortar restaurant just opened in late July and, still in its infancy, is pretty barebones. The interior is mostly plain concrete walls, floors and ceiling, save an empty bar area, a soda fountain and a giant faux plant wall overlain with a neon sign that reads in cursive: “Who want the smoke?”

The answer:

Me. I want the smoke. Give it to me, Arnold.

I sat and perused the menu, the front and back of which are more or less paternal twins. Each side has four categories: sandwiches, flatbreads and more, bowls and baskets, and pasta. There are also mini sections for sides and dessert.

The theme seems to be relatively ubiquitous throughout: Southern barbecue-inspired American comfort food. 

I tried to go half-and-half between the meat and vegan menus, but the carnivore in me pushed against my better judgment. I decided on the rib tips with a side of baked beans, the grilled chicken sandwich, the fried oyster mushrooms and a side of the smoked gouda macaroni and cheese.

The rib tips and baked beans:

Sticky, smoky, tender. Though they appear snack-sized, these baddies are meatier than they look. The glaze is equally vinegary and sweet, coated thick and generously amongst all the tips. The meat-to-bone ratio is very favorable, with very little discard, and everything edible on the rib is nearly fall-off-the-bone tender.

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I love all barbecue sides, but baked beans are in the top three for me. Arnold’s are made a little extra special with the addition of tender chopped brisket, all stewed in a sauce that tastes very similar to the one used on the ribs. Delicious.

The chicken sandwich:

Nothing crazy to write home about, but a solid chicken sandwich nevertheless. The chicken is lightly marinated and can be ordered either fried or grilled. Besides the lettuce and tomato, the sandwich is garnished with Arnold’s housemade agave mustard, which is akin to honey mustard but a bit more subtle in flavor. The replacement of honey with agave nectar also makes the sauce totally vegan.

The fried oyster mushrooms:

Look — I’m a little biased here. I love mushrooms more than most things, and I’ll gladly pick a great mushroom dish over a plate of chicken tenders any day. But these oyster mushrooms aren’t just a quick replacement for the tendies. They’re better. They were the unrivaled star of the show. Uncompromisingly delicious in flavor and texture. Crispy, shatteringly crunchy exterior, tender and meaty center. 

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The earthy umami of the oyster mushroom becomes super concentrated from the deep fry, as does the flavor and texture of the well-seasoned dredge. The mushrooms themselves have a meaty quality about them that can satisfy vegans and non-vegans alike, without missing the chicken one bit.

The mushrooms are served with seasoned fries and two sauces. The agave mustard made another appearance alongside buffalo sauce, which I assume is made vegan, but I can’t be entirely sure. If you go to Arnold’s, order this dish.

The smoked gouda macaroni and cheese:

Macaroni and cheese comes in all shapes and sizes, some of which I love and some of which I can pass on. I’m hard to impress with the stuff, I’ve got to admit. But this was something else. It blew me away. I don’t want to imagine how much smoked gouda goes into the cheese sauce here, but I’m sure it’s a ton.

The big pasta shells absorb the sauce to create pockets of fudgy, rich, sweet and smoky cheese. Topped with a little Crystal hot sauce at home, this was easily my second-favorite dish of the meal. I could’ve eaten a lot more than just a side.

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The bottom line:

While the meat-forward options were great, my only regret is not ordering more from the vegan menu. If you’re not a vegan or vegetarian, don’t dismiss this side of the restaurant’s offerings. Just based on the oyster mushrooms alone, I’m certain the rest of the vegan options are killer. I’ll have to report back — the barbecue jackfruit sandwich is calling my name.

Arnold’s is brand new and is still working out the kinks of service, which is to be expected of any restaurant within the first few months.

When I went, there was a staff shortage, as well as a 10-top waiting for their food ahead of me, so after a bit of a wait, I asked for my food to be boxed up to go. This really wasn’t an inconvenience for me, since I had limited time to eat, and Arnold’s food travels surprisingly well. Everything was still hot and fresh when I ate it.

As Arnold’s optimizes its workflow, it might behoove you to call in an order ahead of time. You can do so for a dine-in or to-go order. But since the food is rather casual and holds up so well in the box, it might be a great idea for a takeout picnic date at the park. Even better? Thanks to Arnold’s, even a herbivore and a carnivore can fall in love.

Arnold’s Smokehouse, located at 2019 E. Person Ave., is open Mondays through Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Sundays, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.