When it comes to sandwiches, there is not much better than a well-made Reuben.

Made with rye bread, the Reuben is comprised of corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing. It’s known for being served in kosher delis, but here’s an interesting twist — a Reuben isn’t kosher because it includes both meat and cheese.

Outside New York, a good Reuben can be hard to find. Many delis attempt to make one but miss the mark.

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But I’m happy to report there’s at least one Reuben in Memphis that’s the real deal.

Max Hussey, the owner of The Mad Grocer & Deli in Crosstown Concourse, approaches the construction of this sandwich from the lens of a chef. One bite, and you can taste the attention to detail.

“It’s about making a sandwich with an extra bit of love, putting it together with care,” Hussey said.

The Mad Grocer’s Reuben starts with the meat. Hussey seasons a corned brisket with a house-made blend of various spices. He then braises it for four to five hours until tender and all the flavors have melded into the meat.

But it’s the way the meat is cut that Hussey said is a game changer:

“We slice it slightly above a shred.”

As in well-known New York delis, Hussey does not skimp on the meat. His Reuben is piled high with a full ½ pound of corned beef.

Hussey also knows a thing or two about cooking beef. He was the executive chef at Folk’s Folly for more than seven years before he left to open his own business.

“My son is 9 years old. When he was younger, it wasn’t a big deal to get home late. But as he started getting older, it started taking its toll,” Hussey said. 

The tipping point came when his son asked him one day, “Daddy, where do you live?”

Hussey took the leap to create a more family-friendly life in August 2023 when he opened The Mad Grocer with his wife Josie Terhune.

A love of sandwiches made a deli the perfect career move.

“I just love sandwiches. It’s a perfect bite. It’s both your meal and a plate,” he said. “Plus, as a chef, it’s comforting taking the time to layer everything.”

The Mad Grocer’s menu includes a collection of signature sandwiches, traditional sandwiches and po’boys. Each recipe is made with Hussey’s chef spin.

When it comes to his Reuben, the other components Hussey adds complete its brilliance. For instance, the Thousand Island dressing is made in-house with The Mad Grocer’s own pickle relish. The rye bread comes from an Italian bakery.

“Rotella makes a wonderful sliced bread,” Hussey said of the bakery. “It holds up well and is a nice, thicker cut, making for a nice sandwich.”

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Hussey said he would prefer to make the sauerkraut himself as well, but he can’t because of grocery-store regulations. Instead, he’s sourced the most authentic and traditional tasting one he could find.

The final touch, which brings the whole sandwich together, is Hussey toasts the bread on the flattop with Plugra, European-style butter. The end result is a sandwich Hussey describes as “warm and tasty, crispy goodness.”

My only complaint? I wish The Mad Grocer had thicker napkins. The sandwich is messy and filling and will have you licking your fingers after every bite. 

The Mad Grocer & Deli, 1350 Concourse Ave., is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays.