$10 Deal: Street food at La Salvadorena
Mulitas, a Mexican street food that’s somewhere between a taco and a quesadilla. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)
Joshua Carlucci
Joshua Carlucci is a writer and food journalist from Los Banos, California. He holds a BA in English from the University of California, Berkeley, a culinary diploma from the Institute of Culinary Education, and an MFA in Creative Writing from the University of Memphis, where he was managing editor of Pinch. His work has appeared or is forthcoming in The Brussels Review, Redivider, Gravy, EatingWell, Southern Living, and elsewhere. He is a staff writer at Brooklyn-based food and beverage industry magazine, StarChefs.Find more of his work on his website, joshuacarlucci.com.
It’s another cold, dreary day in Memphis — the kind that demands something warm, hearty and, ideally, fried. So I head to La Salvadoreña, a food truck parked right next to Dixie Queen on Mount Moriah Road, its exterior wrapped in flames, cow spots and the happiest little cartoon cow you’ve ever seen.
If a cow holding a fork and smiling through fire isn’t a sign of good food — and perhaps a metaphor for life — I don’t know what is.
This truck serves both Salvadoran and Mexican classics, but today, I’m here for the Salvadoran side of the menu. I had my heart set on caldo de gallina (hen stew) or even caldo de res (beef stew), but they were out of both, so I pivoted to something fried, stuffed and deeply satisfying.
The pastelitos de pollo ($12) arrive as little half-moon masa pockets, fried to a deep, golden orange and packed with slow-cooked, shredded chicken. They’re crispy outside, soft inside and served with a side of salted cabbage slaw that adds just enough crunch and acidity to keep things balanced.
A little cup of salsa roja sits on the side: bright, lightly smoky and exactly what the pastelitos need. Think of them as El Salvador’s answer to empanadas but with more chew and a deeper corn flavor.
The pastelitos de pollo arrive as little half-moon masa pockets, fried to a deep, golden orange and packed with slow-cooked, shredded chicken. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)
I also grab two mulitas ($5 each), a Mexican street food that’s somewhere between a taco and a quesadilla. The tortillas are grilled until golden and just crisp enough to hold together, stuffed with melted cheese and either carne asada or chicken.
The cheese pulls apart in stretchy strands, the meat is deeply savory, and the slightly spicy salsa verde on the side gives each bite a little punch. They’re smaller than a quesadilla but packed with flavor, making them a perfect, compact snack.
La Salvadoreña is the kind of spot where you eat with your hands, wipe the grease off your fingers and immediately wish you had ordered more. If you’re after Salvadoran comfort food at a solid price, this truck has you covered. But call ahead if you’re craving something specific; popular dishes sell out but are more likely available on the weekends. Either way, it’s worth the stop.
La Salvadoreña is open every day, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Call (901) 406-8796 or visit their Facebook page for more information.
Topics
$10 Deal La Salvadorena$15 Deals on demand
Sign up to receive $15 Deals stories as they’re published.
Enter your e-mail address
Related stories
$10 Deal: Guatemalan ‘surf and turf’ at Alicia Restaurante
The rib steak, with its charred edges and tender middle, balances beautifully with plump shrimp just kissed by the grill.
$10 Deal: Isabella’s New-York style pizza in Bartlett
The display case tells you everything you need to know about Isabella’s. A sprawling array of classic, oversized slices dominates the counter.
$10 Deal: Takashi is a Japanese bistro with pan-Asian range
An entire Thai menu — with an impressive version of drunken noodles — adds to Takashi’s offerings of well-executed sushi and soba bowls.
Want to comment on our stories or respond to others? Join the conversation by subscribing now. Only paid subscribers can add their thoughts or upvote/downvote comments. Our commenting policy can be viewed here.