Welcome back to Table Talk, where Daily Memphian food and dining editor Jennifer Biggs sends the latest food news (along with a dash of this and that) to your inbox every Wednesday.

On Sunday, I slept in a bit and when I awoke, I picked up my phone. Among my overnight notifications was a text that said, “Thank you for everything, especially your kind remarks.”

I don’t know about you, but I get almost as much spam texts as email, and that didn’t sound like it was meant for me. I started my day — coffee, a bite to eat, an unusually lengthy phone call then a Monday column — and it slipped my mind.

Hours later, Jack Sammons texted to tell me that it was Dan Brown’s last day at Leonard’s. The earlier text, the one I read when I was still foggy from sleep, clicked, and I called Dan to tell him I was rushing over to say goodbye.

I’m so glad I did. If you’ve never had the pleasure of meeting him, well, I hate it for you. Brown is one of the most authentically likable people I’ve known and the folks saying goodbye to him on Sunday spoke from the heart — some choking up — as they wished him well in his retirement.

Here’s a fun little distraction that didn’t make it in the story. Brown has saved years of memorabilia and he shared with me an old menu that he believed was from the 1930s or ’40s, in perfect condition.

A filet mignon, served with French fries and salad, was $1.25. A hamburger was 30 cents; a hot dog, 20 cents. Livercheese was 25 cents; and for 35 cents, you could get Mr. Brown Pig or Miss White Pig, terms mostly forgotten, though now and again you’ll run across someone in a barbecue joint who knows what you mean if you ask for a “sliced white” sandwich. 

Farewell, Dan. I’m looking forward to a meal of fried catfish when you make it back to town. That’s a tip for you, by the way: Like its barbecue brother Corky’s, Leonard’s serves up fine fried catfish. 

Speaking of institutions: Molly’s La Casita has changed hands. Owner Jamie Chapman, who took over the business when her husband, Robert Chapman, died, sold last week to Jessica and Kevin Carnell. Here’s to many more years of Mr. Bruce’s nachos. 

A third Memphis food institution under new ownership: La Baguette has reopened its doors after a renovation. You’ll remember that the Tashie family purchased the bakery in March, spiffed it up and had it back in full swing last week.

Petit fours are among my favorite things, and I spent a fair amount of time with Loretta Bennett to find out just how she makes those 1 ½-inch square bites of happiness. She’s been with La Baguette for 37 years, and most of the other employees are long-timers like her. A new dining room is coming and with it, bistro dining at night; there’s a new bar under construction too.

Last week I gave you, courtesy of Judd Tashie and 34-year La Baguette veteran Liz Jackson, the recipe for Spicy Tomato Soup. A few folks, including my mother, remember a different version that predates Jackson and is a bit heartier, with pieces of tomato. Reader Susan Thorp sent me the recipe she got years ago from someone who worked at La Baguette and I’m adding it to the “newer” recipe. 

For this week’s recipe, it’s Spam Jam. Ron Perel requested this and I couldn’t find it despite looking everywhere for an electronic or paper version. I knew I had it — I got it from a contestant in the Delta Fair Spam competition some years ago. After I gave up hope, a few days ago the recipe popped up in my memories on my phone as I’d taken a photo of it. Just popped up, sort of “automagically,” as Daily Memphian CEO Eric Barnes often says.

I wish I could credit the woman who created it, but her name is nowhere in the photo. If it’s you, contact me and I’ll get that straight.

I have links to two podcasts for you today. Click here to listen to Judd Tashie talk about La Baguette and also about recently purchasing Bryant’s Breakfast and the plans he and his family have for Ciao Bella. Here’s the link to Sound Bites with Martha Hample, who co-owns Hampline Brewing Co. and is an investor in a few beloved restaurants around town. 

But there’s more! Chris Herrington was busy this week despite fitting in a nice long weekend getaway. He brought us a Street Food column that includes the news that Bain BBQ is now serving breakfast, plus this: Smoked queso. And it has brisket in it. 

He also let us know that Zio Matto will be selling gelato at FedExForum this season, and told us how Matteo Servente and Ryan Watt got this business up and running. 

And finally, tickets for Cooper-Young Beerfest went on sale today. You can get yours online, but better have your vaccine card too. It’s the latest event to announce that if you want to attend, you’ll have to show proof of vaccination at the gate. 

Have a happy and safe week, everyone.