New Eats: The Cheesecake Boss Italian Pizzeria gets it right
A sausage roll and a jumbo stuffed slice are two of the numerous pizza and kin available at The Cheesecake Boss Italian Pizzeria. (Jennifer Biggs/Daily Memphian)
If you’re among the fans of Milano’s Pizza, you’re in more luck than you know. The Cheesecake Boss Italian Pizzeria opened last week in Cordova and, well, Merry Christmas. Ho ho ho.
Listen up. Pizza connoisseur Chloë, my 5-year-old granddaughter, took one bite and said, “This is the best pizza I’ve ever tasted.”
That’s in all her five years. She proceeded to give it not one, not two, but 20 thumbs up. That’s all her fingers, twice, displayed one hand at a time so she could keep eating pizza.
A jumbo deluxe has it all. (Jennifer Biggs/Daily Memphian)
And she was eating leftovers. Just a few hours before, I said almost the same thing when I took a bite of the sausage roll, only I was even more effusive.
“That’s the best thing I’ve ever tasted in my life,” I said, which, take note, I’ve said more than once when it’s 3 p.m. and I haven’t eaten all day.
That doesn’t mean it wasn’t excellent, because it was, and in the moment, I meant every word. But it’s a sausage roll, after all, and I have more than five years under my belt. Still, I’ve wanted to go back every day since I ate there on Friday.
The Milano’s story begins in 1978, when the Daniele family moved from Brooklyn to open Dino’s Pizza in the Raleigh Springs Mall. They were recent Italian immigrants, having moved from Milan in 1968 for a better life, which, it turns out, they found here. They soon opened a second Dino’s and later changed the name to Milano’s. Today there are eight restaurants in the metropolitan area split among the five brothers, including this newest one owned by Pietro Daniele.
There’s more to this place than pizza, though I’ll let you know now that I didn’t make it to the cheesecake; next time. There’s pasta, soups, salads, subs (hot and cold), stromboli, calzones and rolls (yes, it’s a third thing). And so on, all the way to cannoli.
There’s more to come, Daniele says, waving his arm to show the space that remains on the wall for additional menu panels. It’s not time yet, though: The restaurant is open seven days a week and staffing is hard these days.
So, the sausage roll: Yep, it was as good as I said, and if I get this wrong, it’s all on me, not on any Italian family. You can get a calzone, which is like a big pizza turnover. An empanada; pizza inside the dough, straight on one edge and crescent-shaped on the other. A half moon. It’s also authentically Italian, created in Naples (so said Stanley Tucci).
And a stromboli is another thing. Liken it to a pinwheel, a piece of dough filled with pizza toppings or sandwich ingredients, rolled up and baked. Provenance: Philly. Then there’s the roll ($7.99), which is a piece of dough filled, pinched about half shut and baked; the center is open, origin unknown.
It couldn’t be simpler: Good, chewy dough with a crisp edge, sausage, cheese, sauteed green pepper and onion. The tomato sauce comes on the side for dipping, though you’ll likely agree it’s optional when you take your first bite. I don’t even like cooked peppers very much, but this roll is right on. The sweet Italian sausage, the cheese, the tender dough inside — it hits the spot.
The Cheesecake Boss Italian Pizzeria opened last week at 465 N. Germantown Parkway. (Jennifer Biggs/Daily Memphian)
The best-seller is the jumbo stuffed slice. (Asking “You know your best seller when you’ve only been open four days?” is how I found out The Cheesecake Boss is a Milano’s restaurant.) It’s jumbo indeed, 9 inches from tip to edge, and we ordered it with meat (pepperoni and sausage; $7.49), though I want the spinach version when I return.
With more food than we could possibly eat, I ordered a jumbo deluxe slice ($4.99). It looked so perfect, sitting there in one of two showcases that will stoke your appetite, and that’s what turned out to be the best pizza of Chloë’s young life. It’s a classic, covered with red sauce, cheese, pepperoni, sausage, green pepper, onion and black olive. The crust is on the thin side, but not thin by today’s standards. Daniele says it’s New York style, but I think it’s a bit sturdier, not really foldable, though we might’ve just had an especially crisp piece.
So we’re stuffed, and the food isn’t even half eaten, split between two people. We say goodbye and leave, right? No! We get a piece of Italian creme cake, because it’s homemade, and Daniele already told us he spent a year working with celebrity baker Buddy Valestro, TV’s “The Cake Boss,” at Carlo’s Bakery in Hoboken, New Jersey in 2012.
It was, of course, the best Italian creme cake I’ve ever tasted.
The Cheesecake Boss Italian Pizzeria, 465 N. Germantown Pkwy., is open 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 11 .m.-8 p.m. on Sunday. Call 901-310-4316.
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New Eats The Cheesecake Boss Italian Pizzeria Pietro Daniele Pizza Milano'sJennifer Biggs
Jennifer Biggs is a native Memphian and veteran food writer and journalist who covers all things food, dining and spirits related for The Daily Memphian.
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