$10 Deal: Momma’s Trooper is a solid breakfast sandwich
Momma’s patio. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)
Joshua Carlucci
Joshua Carlucci is a writer and food journalist from Los Banos, California. He holds a BA in English from the University of California, Berkeley, a culinary diploma from the Institute of Culinary Education, and an MFA in Creative Writing from the University of Memphis, where he was managing editor of Pinch. His work has appeared or is forthcoming in The Brussels Review, Redivider, Gravy, EatingWell, Southern Living, and elsewhere. He is a staff writer at Brooklyn-based food and beverage industry magazine, StarChefs.Find more of his work on his website, joshuacarlucci.com.
I don’t always associate breakfast with dive bars although there are others who might.
I’m not much of a drinker myself, but I do eat bacon and eggs, and you can do both if you happen to find yourself at Momma’s.
This Downtown watering hole touts itself as “the first and last bar in Memphis,” referring to its both early rise and late shine; it’s open from 6:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. on weekdays. Its handmade sign at the intersection of Kentucky Street and E.H. Crump Boulevard also says it’s got the earliest breakfast Downtown.
That may or may not be true, but with a mile between Momma’s and a beautiful sunrise at Tom Lee Park, I’ll bite.
The trucker-themed “diner and dive” closed for extensive renovations in 2021 when construction on the I-55 bridge and the Crump Boulevard interchange diverted traffic away from Momma’s. It’s since reopened with grander features, including an expanded patio deck complete with canvas shades and a soundstage.
But Momma’s still has its dingy and dark dive bar charm.
Inside, beer mirrors and foraged road signs hang from the wood beneath strings of Christmas lights, and the parking lot out front has dedicated motorcycle parking.
The shiny new deck is the perfect place for a rising breakfast during the dimmer hours of these cool autumn mornings, but breakfast is served until 11 a.m. if you’re not quite an early bird. Across the board, the menu selections at Momma’s are reflective of the name: American down-home comfort food, just like Mom used to make.
Just about all the breakfast food at Momma’s is at or around the $10 mark. It’s heavy on the carbs and grease; you can choose from a variety of meats to put between biscuits or toast, or cross over to the sweet side and pile chocolate or fruit over a four-story stack of pancakes.
I vie for the savory when it comes to breakfast, so I decided on The Trooper and the Biscuits and Gravy.
The Trooper, $10, is Momma’s breakfast sandwich, simple and no-frills with bacon, country ham, two fried eggs and American cheese between two buttered and toasted slices of white or wheat bread.
The Trooper at Momma’s. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)
The eggs are cooked over hard and peppered generously, and despite not having any sauce, The Trooper is well-seasoned and not one bit dry. I’ll still drown any egg item with hot sauce, but that’s a personal problem.
Biscuits and Gravy. (Joshua Carlucci/Special to The Daily Memphian)
The Biscuits and Gravy, $5, are also rather rudimentary — simply two opened-faced biscuits drowned in creamy, peppered white gravy. The biscuits are buttery and the gravy thick but not overwhelmingly heavy. This is a great dish to share amongst a couple of other breakfast entrees. The leftover gravy that paints the plate is great for dipping and sopping.
And as with any respectable diner, the coffee flows like a tap at Momma’s, and a bottomless mug is only $2.50.
There’s a lot you can start a binge on for a bargain at Momma’s, so pick your poison. I’ll be back for the steak and eggs.
Mommas, located at 855 Kentucky St., is open 6:30 a.m. to 1 a.m., Mondays through Fridays; 11 a.m. to 3 a.m. Saturdays, and 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Sundays. For more info, call (901) 207-5111.
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