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What to Order: Limelight’s Parisian gnocchi, blackened salmon and caramelized onion dip

By , Special to The Daily Memphian Published: December 16, 2024 4:00 AM CT
Jennifer Chandler
Special to The Daily Memphian

Jennifer Chandler

A cookbook author and former restaurateur, Jennifer Chandler has been writing about food and dining for more than 25 years.

She is the author of four cookbooks: “The Southern Pantry Cookbook,” “Simply Salads,” “Simply Suppers,” and “Simply Grilling.” While she boasts a degree from Le Cordon Bleu, this Memphis native is about making real food accessible for real families.

Ingredients such as butternut squash, turnips, duck confit and port wine are quintessential fall flavors.

With this in mind, it's not surprising that a dish with these elements is my “What to Order” at Limelight.

At Limelight in Germantown, it’s all about the seasons.


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The menu takes inspiration from the time of year, with thoughtfully designed dishes that reflect the bounty of what’s in season. Cocktails are designed to complement the dishes, and even the wine list is modified.

The restaurant itself even undergoes a transformation.

When you walk into Limelight, your eyes are immediately drawn to the uplit tree in the middle of the room. As the seasons change, John Mark Enterprises changes out the tree to match. 

“This is how you will know the menu is changed,” Kirk Cotham, who owns Limelight and Wolf River Hospitality Group with Chad Foreman, said of the tree. 

The restaurant is currently serving its fall menu. 

We enjoyed every dish that we had at a recent dinner, but there are a few standouts I have to mention.


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The autumnal ingredients mentioned above are featured in the Parisian gnocchi on the current menu. Tender Parisian gnocchi are tossed with bite-size pieces of butternut squash, turnips and duck confit. Truffle butter and a port glaze bring the dish together. Each bite is bursting with the flavors of the season.

I told Limelight Executive Chef DJ Pitts that my only complaint about this dish is that I wanted more gnocchi. 

Unlike Italian gnocchi, which is made with potato as the base, Parisian gnocchi uses choux pastry (the same dough used in profiteroles and eclairs) as the base. Pitts flavors his with Parmesan cheese and parsley. Each gnocchi was a perfect little pillow of deliciousness.

But if I’m honest, I am letting my love of gnocchi get in the way of the fact that Pitts constructed a perfectly balanced dish.

“The focus is on what’s in season and staying true to that,” said Pitts, as he explained that after conceptualizing a seasonal dish, he spends a fair amount of time sourcing ingredients.


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Pitts has headed Limelight’s kitchen since early 2023. This past summer he took over the role of general manager, as well.

“I really wanted an opportunity to have guest interaction and to advocate for the whole restaurant — not just the food, but the service, too,” the 26-year industry veteran said.

Cotham said Pitts was the perfect person to step up to the role of general manager, crediting Pitts’ passion for the guest experience and what he has accomplished in the kitchen.

I’d be remiss in not mentioning two other dishes we enjoyed, both of which illustrate Pitts’ creativity: The caramelized onion dip starter is his shareable play on French onion soup.

“I wanted something that was more fall-ish than the crab dip we previously had on the menu,” he said.


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The dip is light and flavorful, with the caramelized onions taking center stage. The house-made potato chips are just the right amount of thickness to hold the dip, yet still be crispy.

If in the mood for fish, order the blackened salmon. It’s one of the more original salmon dishes I’ve had.

According to Pitts, blackening is not just a seasoning blend, but a cooking technique. He generously seasons one side of the salmon with a house spice blend of more than 20 ingredients and then cooks it until the side is almost a crust-like crispy texture. The fish sits on a bed of beluga lentils, and a dill salsa verde is a bright, refreshing garnish. 

Limelight’s winter menu will debut in January. While I’ll be sad to see some current favorites leave the menu, I can’t wait to see what Pitts does next. The seasonal changes keep dining at Limelight fresh, literally and figuratively!

Limelight is open for dinner only, and reservations are almost a must for the dining room. But know that a community table and bar seating are not reservable, so they are available for walk-in guests.

Limelight, located at 7724 Poplar Pike in Germantown, is open Mondays through Saturdays. The bar opens for happy hour at 4:30 p.m., and dining room reservations begin at 5 p.m.

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